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  1. #1
    Shaggysk8's Avatar
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    Enlarging times for bigger size papers

    Hello I have a print done at 8x10 with dodge and burns all times worked out nicely, now I want to print it bigger, how can I work out my times by doing bigger prints and does it need any adjustment?

    Paul

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    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    It's proportional to the print area. i.e if you know the time for a 10 x 8 print then a 20 x 16 print will take four times as long. 80 sq. inches : 320 sq. inches.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

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  4. #4
    ROL
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    "Now that I already know where I am going and how to get there - by following the PRINTING RECORD's recipe - the TEST PRINT can often be skipped when making greater enlargements. The first exposure for a STRAIGHT PRINT may be estimated by..." - from the section, Making Larger Prints, part of my article, Making a Fine Print.
    Last edited by ROL; 08-18-2010 at 01:39 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #5
    Christopher Walrath's Avatar
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    Think of it in terms of aperture. 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22. Increase a stop for print sizes. 5x7, 8x10, 11x14, 16x20 and so on. It's not exact but it will be really close. Adapt as needed.
    Thank you.
    CWalrath

    "Wubba, wubba, wubba. Bing, bang, bong. Yuck, yuck, yuck and a fiddle-dee-dee." - The Yeti

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    MattKing's Avatar
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    One minor caution - if you are working with very low light levels and very long exposure times, you may begin to have trouble with reciprocity failure.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  7. #7
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    Using math will get you close, as suggested above. Adjustments might (should?) be made as a matter of expression. A print at 16x20 may not "say" the same thing even though it has the exact same light values as the 8x10. For example, small deep shadow areas that work well at 8x10 all of a sudden become large information-less black areas at 16x20. And those small pure white highlights that gave the 8x10 life can become distracting white specks at 16x20.
    At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.

  8. #8

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    http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm has a nice exposure ruler you print and tape to a ruler, it is hiding in the support files page.

  9. #9
    Shaggysk8's Avatar
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    Thank you very much every one, today I made my first 16 x 20 print and it's beautiful

  10. #10

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    I agree with Vaughn. I always make a new test print. The math can be a starting point but once you see larger prints after they dry down you will find there is something that will need a change. Usually the larger prints will be viewed from a different distance and the ambient light may not be the same as when you are up close and personal with your print.

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