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  1. #21
    yeknom02's Avatar
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    I am also confused. It sounds like the Zonal Pro rinse is similar to the Ilford product just mentioned. I'm wondering if I can counteract the oxidation effects of the hypo eliminator via a selenium toning process?
    "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." - HST
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  2. #22
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Both, Kodak HCA and Ilford Washaid, are very useful and highly recommended wash aids. Neither one of them is a hypo-eliminator. Ilford has chosen an unfortunate description for their wash aid. There is a difference between wash aids and hypo-eliminators. Use of the former is recommended, use of the latter is discouraged, because they really eliminate all hypo, and some remaining fixer is actually helpful for image stability.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
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  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    Both, Kodak HCA and Ilford Washaid, are very useful and highly recommended wash aids. Neither one of them is a hypo-eliminator. Ilford has chosen an unfortunate description for their wash aid. There is a difference between wash aids and hypo-eliminators. Use of the former is recommended, use of the latter is discouraged, because they really eliminate all hypo, and some remaining fixer is actually helpful for image stability.
    Ralph, thank you for the clarification. I'm also contemplating the use of Zonal Pro Rinse Aid to dilute Rapid Selenium toner (as advertised by Zonal Pro). Alan Ross does this, according to his process description for Special Edition Prints of AA's negatives that he posted at one time on the AA website. So far I'm still using the toner in HCA as described in AA's book "The Print."
    Last edited by silveror0; 03-23-2011 at 05:18 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #24
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    I prefer to keep HCA and toner separate and cannot recommend mixing them. A mixture creates little benefit but loses a lot of flexibility.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  5. #25

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    I thought I had read that the Ilford sequence for FB was 5,10 5 respectively for wash, HCA and wash to achieve archival prints. Is Ilford completely wrong on this by what appears to be a large factor?

    If 10 secs for stop is OK for RC does this increase 3 fold for FB and is this based on the same phenomenon of penetration of dev into the fibres which takes the stopbath three times as long to stop?

    pentaxuser

  6. #26
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    10 s? I need 15 s to drain a print!
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  7. #27
    yeknom02's Avatar
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    For RC papers, I used 30 seconds of stop bath, and 60 seconds for fiber papers.
    "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." - HST
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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by pentaxuser View Post
    I thought I had read that the Ilford sequence for FB was 5,10 5 respectively for wash, HCA and wash to achieve archival prints. Is Ilford completely wrong on this by what appears to be a large factor?

    pentaxuser
    I have also wondered how Ilford can advise such a final short wash for archival processing when clearly it is not enough.
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  9. #29
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    Only a test will say for sure but I assume that Ilford tested their Washaid product and found that 5 minutes water, 10 minutes Washaid and 5 minutes water was equivalent to their normal recommendation of 60 minutes without Washaid. You can test it for yourself with a residual test.
    Last edited by hpulley; 03-26-2011 at 09:30 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: mistake
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  10. #30
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    I have an off brand (FotoFinesse)that is called Hypo Eliminator

    It contains:

    sodium sulfite
    ammonium sulfite

    Is this safe for fb paper? Am I correct when I assume both these chemicals should keep very well if stored reasonably?

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