Tips from the Darkroom

[holmburgers]

haha

I feel liberated having read this, as though your own directions tell me it's OK to ignore some of the things you've said and accept the ones that would work for me.

[Bob Carnie]

I feel you should find your own way and though there are some strict rules, most of them can be broken to get a great print.
these notes are all random, collections of day to day observations over the last thirty years of printing for others. Some apply more to colour printing others to lith prints, others to solarizations prints(my favourite method of printing ) and so on.

haha

I feel liberated having read this, as though your own directions tell me it's OK to ignore some of the things you've said and accept the ones that would work for me.

[lns]

This is very helpful and interesting. Thanks for taking the time to write and share this.

For anyone else who might not know, I found an explanation for "outflanking" here: http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/onprinting.html

-Laura

[ic-racer]

Great stuff!

[PVia]

Awesome collection, as usual from Bob.

I've collected Bob's tips on lith and darkroom work from his posts throughout the years and they have been an invaluable inspiration in my growth as a printer...thanks, Bob!

[Bill Burk]

Thanks Bob,
Every tip rings true.
I thought for sure when you said three prints you were talking about my rule to make three prints. One to mess up, one to give away and one to keep.

[mike c]

I like to use a split filter technique for most of my work which is based on a middle filter , blast of 5 filter and burn with 00filter.
I do not like the 0 and 5 method only

Bob,I don't understand what you mean by " based on middle filter,and blast of# 5".I can under stand burning in with a 00 filter.Is your normal procedure to decide on a middle contrast filter for basic exposure for test prints then correct local contrasts with the higher or lower filters. A very nice set of procedures,some I use already and some are new to me.Thanks

Mike

[Mick Fagan]

Brilliant.

However I'll go on using my foot switch, just love them. Agree though that working with colour, sometimes the foot switch can be lost in the dark

Mick.

[Jeff Kubach]

I enjoy reading your post. For the most part I agree with you.

Jeff

[Bob Carnie]

Mike
I like to choose a filter to start with that would be 1/2 to 1 grade softer than would make a good print with. I then also determine a density that is just a bit lighter.
The grade 5 blast is to taste and with normal negs I have found a 100% of main exposure is required, I will dodge areas if it is too much 5 or hit the timer twice if I want more contrast.* I call it a blast but basically just another exposure, for sanity sake I do not change the timer time once I have determined the main exposure, but count in my head and use dodging burning tools to give the right % of grade 5 and grade 0
A tip is to burn in the highlights with the grade 5, you will notice better local contrast and detail in the highlight regions if you do this.

With my workflow the 0 filter is not as important, but valuable to put soft detail in highlight regions the main filter does not reach.
Also I base the main exposure on the uppermidtone to highlight and dodge to taste. Trying to burn in detail is a pain.

I like to use a split filter technique for most of my work which is based on a middle filter , blast of 5 filter and burn with 00filter.
I do not like the 0 and 5 method only

Bob,I don't understand what you mean by " based on middle filter,and blast of# 5".I can under stand burning in with a 00 filter.Is your normal procedure to decide on a middle contrast filter for basic exposure for test prints then correct local contrasts with the higher or lower filters. A very nice set of procedures,some I use already and some are new to me.Thanks

Mike