The boxes should have processing instructions inside. It is quite different from RC, though what goes on in the emulsion during the major steps (develop, stop, and fix) is the same between FB and RC.
In a nutshell:
- You develop at least twice as long as with RC 2 to 3 minutes, or even longer.
- You stop for 30 seconds to a minute, instead of 10 to 20 seconds.
- You fix for four to five minutes instead of one or two.
- Instead of washing for only five or ten minutes immediately after the fixer, you give a quick rinse on both sides, then start a timed wash for an hour or more.
- Instead of the hour-long wash, after the fixer you can just give a quick rinse, then use hypo clear solution with agitation (Kodak recommend 2 or 3 minutes, and Ilford recommend 10), which will make washing more efficient. If you use hypo clear, you can wash for only 20 to 30 minutes.
- There are variations you can make to this process to supposedly improve the keeping of your prints over time. Two bath fixing is an example. Another example is using a stronger brew of fixer for less time. Using a stabilizer such as Sistan is another.