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  1. #11
    jp498's Avatar
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    http://jason.philbrook.us/gallery3/v...51/DSC4780.jpg

    I made mine out of 2x4's and plywood. Each side is a rectangle-A shape. A rectangle of 2x4's support the plywood top, which received several coats of poly. A piece of plywood about 8" high was added to the back for side-side stability. It's not attached to the wall to reduce vibration. The blower goes on the wall shelf rather than the table to isolate vibration as well. I'm not a carpenter, but I've taken a couple shop classes so I can pretend to be one. It's very sturdy, but not pretty.

    I built it small enough to fit through the doorway. I also installed an eyehook in the ceiling, which I used to raise the enlarger to swap the table under it with this one. Now the hook has a rope that suspends the air hose coming out of the enlarger head.

    I'm thinking of adding drawers below at some point or getting a rolling tool cabinet to put underneath.

  2. #12
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    Wait, can you actually take an enlarger off its baseboard and bolt it to something else? Wouldn't that make the alignment all screwy?

    You guys are making me think about making a little rolly-cart myself - it would make hauling the enlarger into the bathroom a real breeze.
    "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." - HST
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  3. #13

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    Yeah, you can.... but you better make sure it's sturdy. Yes, it does screw up alignment a bit so you'll have to realign.

    I replaced my baseboard from stock Omega D-2 to double 3/4" plywood. It's a lot more sturdy but that caused front and back alignment to go off by a bit by sagging a bit less. It's not hard to do with proper tool but without it, forget it. I ended up borrowing one to do mine.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  4. #14
    yeknom02's Avatar
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    Someone once told me that a Beseler 23C (my enlarger) is virtually impossible to re-align. Maybe I'll just put it on top of a roll-cart, then.
    "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." - HST
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  5. #15

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    I don't know about Beseler, but trying to align Omega D2 was like trying drink a hot coffee while balancing on a beach ball....
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  6. #16

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    Make sure to accommodate enlarger height. To get a decent stand up working table height plus a 4x5 enlarger you need a tall ceiling. To me, there is nothing worse than working on a bench too short. I ended up with a 24" table and a chair.

    Make the bench legs from 2x4`s first by making an H, then a cross piece across the top. Duplicate for the other side.

    Now join the two sets of H`s with 2x4`s across the top and you have a table without a top. However the table will parallelogram so you need to add diagonal bracing on three sides.

    Use decking screws, no nails ever.

    Because the enlarger is heavy, I put 2x4 planks over the whole top, but 4 would do. Cover with 3/4 plywood. Trim off the open edges of the plywood is a nice touch.

    Follow this and two men and a boy will be able to stand on it.

    All this too much?, buy two saw horses and make a nice ladder type top 2x4 frame and plywood top. Make it wide enough for paper safe, timers, grain magnifier etc. 3/4 feet about right.

    http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60582-.../dp/B000MJ180K

    The frame is important so you do not sag. Use 2x4 vertically as there is more support.

    A nice touch is two level top and cut a recess in the top for the baseboard. That way you get a nice smooth table top. Make the baseboard 1/16" proud to the top.

    Good luck

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by tkamiya View Post
    John,

    Can you take a picture of that and post? I'm thinking of doing something similar. Visual would help me.
    here are some off the cuff photos of the bench i made

    it is pretty sturdy -
    i have 2 omega enlargers and a durst on there, and sometimes i have to stand on it too ...
    one of the views shows a drying rack i made
    really easy ... just plywood i have for 3 sides ... and
    cheap lathe wood used both for the rests for the screens
    AND what the screens are stapled on ..
    a staplegun works wonders sometimes ...
    john
    Last edited by jnanian; 08-12-2011 at 08:38 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #18
    bluedog's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, that has given me a good start.
    Greg

  9. #19
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grainy View Post
    This is my DIY trolly for my Durst Laborator 1200. Works great.


    I'm planning to modify it and build a height adjustable baseboard so I can stand when making prints, now I'm sitting on a chair. I built the trolly with maximum height and width so I could get the trolly through the doors.
    What material is that baseboard/counter top? I am looking to source something similar for my LPL 670xl thats missing a baseboard.

  10. #20

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    Lordy ,this thread reminds me of Pop.Mechanics magazines in the 60's : all sorts of neat stuff.
    You certainly can remove a 23C from the baseboard, but an better method is to cut the baseboard off , a decent distance forward of the chassis feet. This gives a useful mounting foot so that you can bolt the big fellow onto your chosen bench ,using washers under the bolts you get from hardware stores,so the whole beast is "bubble level" . If you use firm,but compressible washers : adjustable alignment.
    Consider mounting near the edge of your bench -the cut off baseboard can be used ,if removable allowing for floor projection.

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