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  1. #11

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    Mark, I'm glad that you made the paper(s) work. Have you used citric acid?

    P.S. IME, exposing Vandyke when it's relatively "damp" (a la Ziatype. IMPORTANT: I put 2mils polyester between the negative and paper in order to protect the negative. It also helps in masking the inherent grain you may get with the non-mentionable workflow...), you get a much colder untoned image, and slightly greater dmax. (The latter for both the plain and toned image.)
    Last edited by Loris Medici; 01-06-2012 at 07:29 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Fixed few typos...

  2. #12
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
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    Thanks Loris, your advice has helped me get off center. VD is certainly a simpler process to deal for me.....and citric acid was unnecessary for me. I'll try the damp version when I do my next round.

  3. #13

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    Mark, it's not damp in the literal sense; observe the paper after coating, and see how much time it takes the surface to become matte, then wait further by a factor of 1-2 (test!). In my conditions, it's usually 10 minutes after finishing coating.

    Regards,
    Loris.

  4. #14

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    Just for the records, one can mix a sodium citrate based kallitype developer buffered at pH levels 6 or 7.

    See below:

    • pH 6: 200g trisodium citrate dihydrate + 20g citric acid monohydrate
    • pH 7: 200g trisodium citrate dihydrate + 2.6g citric acid monohydrate


    (Amounts for 1000ml developer...)

    Worked it out using this site.

    Regards,
    Loris.

  5. #15

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    I've used Masa and it works great. But I now mainly use fixed-out barya paper (Ilford FB seems to work best, but most any brand of fb paper can work too). Fixed-out Baryta paper works well for Van Dyke prints. In fact, I recommend starting with VDB solutions to learn the tricks of coating baryta paper before moving on to plat/palladium on the same paper. It is much, much cheaper and a bit easier to do and, to be honest, a well done VDB print on fixed out baryta looks almost exactly the same as a pt/pd print.

  6. #16
    dpurdy's Avatar
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    I just picked up a few sheets of the Masa and it is very textured on one side and very slick and smooth on the other. Which side did you use?
    Dennis

  7. #17
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jorj View Post
    I'd encourage you to take a look at Ruscombe Mill's "Herschel". It quickly became my favorite for kallitypes (primarily palladium-toned). http://www.ruscombepaper.com/
    Do you have an American dealer for this paper?
    Thanks,
    Jim
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  8. #18

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    Dennis, both sides work. I personally prefer the smooth side...

  9. #19
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    Jim, I've only ordered it directly from Ruscombe. They shipped quicker than I expected; no worse than coming from the other side of North America.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loris Medici View Post
    Mark, you may also try Masa paper; works great with every iron / iron-silver processes I know. (Even Argyrotype!) Beware: It's a thin paper (something around 90 g/sqm), therefore, if you print large (> 11x14") you will have to be careful when handling; may tear and/or crease easily. (Don't be intimidated; it's much stronger than it sounds...) And, as a last note: Try Vandyke w/o citric acid first, use it only if it doesn't work otherwise.

    Regards,
    Loris.

    Are you ordering your Masa paper in Europe Loris or the US? Would like to try a sample.
    Platinum Printing Editions http://www.dceditions.com
    The Art of Platinum Printing Blog http://artofplatinum.wordpress.com/
    Alternative Photographic Processes blog http://altphotoblog.com/

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