Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,002   Posts: 1,524,471   Online: 1067
      
Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 31
  1. #1
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Chicago
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,626
    Images
    151

    Paper for Kallitype or Pd/Pt print

    I decided to try kallitypes again. I am having a lot of problems with getting a decent paper to work for me. I tried some Weston Diploma paper from B&S.....great Dmax, bad staining or fog in the highlights. I then tried Clearprint Vellum. Easily cleared, poor dmax. I am using sodium citrate developer, clearing bath 1 is 1% citric acid, clearing bath 2 is permawash. I then tone in Clerc's gold and fix in 5% sodium thiocynate. This combination worked well for me a few years ago with the old Arches Platine paper. I just mixed the sensitizer. The 10% silver nitrate is a year or two old, but looks fine (stored in the dark, in dark glass, in the basement). I get the distinct feeling that my problem is paper and/or my clearing method. Any advice?

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Istanbul, Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    640
    Mark, not an answer to your actual question but wanted to mention anyway: I use Weston Diploma for Vandykes, (+ Clerc's gold-thiourea toning) and for me it works great! (Just a note if you ever decide to switch to Vandyke...) I add 1-2 drops of 40% citric acid into the coating solution (not to the stock sensitizer!), makes it work better; great dmax and tonality + zero fogging...

    Regards,
    Loris.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,641
    My best prints with Kallitype, and more recently Palladium, have been on Bergger COT320. It seems to give better detail as well as higher DMax (judged visually).
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

  4. #4
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Chicago
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,626
    Images
    151
    Thanks to both. Loris, I am using an unmentionable method so I don't see any reason not to use Vandyke especially since I am toning afterward. In fact I mixed up some solution last night hoping it would be easier to clear and/or be more tolerant of paper. I'll include the citric acid as mentioned.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Istanbul, Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    640
    Mark, you may also try Masa paper; works great with every iron / iron-silver processes I know. (Even Argyrotype!) Beware: It's a thin paper (something around 90 g/sqm), therefore, if you print large (> 11x14") you will have to be careful when handling; may tear and/or crease easily. (Don't be intimidated; it's much stronger than it sounds...) And, as a last note: Try Vandyke w/o citric acid first, use it only if it doesn't work otherwise.

    Regards,
    Loris.

  6. #6
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Chicago
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,626
    Images
    151
    Loris...thanks for the advice. My local art supply store has Masa paper and it is ridiculously inexpensive so it is worth a try also. If I printed bigger, I'd probably get a piece of plexiglass and tape the paper to it for development. I'd crease it for sure. Also, what is the downside of adding the citric acid? I think I'll try both with and without for my calibrations just out of curiosity.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Istanbul, Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    640
    Nothing special about citric acid; just, if it ain't broke, don't fix it

    P.S.
    See the section below, taken from Mike Ware's Argyrotype article BTW:
    "...Without exception all the iron-silver processes to date have used the most commonly available soluble salt of the metal, namely silver nitrate. But nitrate is an oxidising anion, and tends to dissolve the colloidal image silver during wet processing, *especially under acidic conditions*. To minimise this loss of image the Kallitype process employs alkaline-buffered developers of high pH, e.g. Borax. Alas, these create a new problem, because they cause hydrolysis of the excess iron(III) in the sensitizer and the deposition of insoluble ferric hydroxide in the image, which ultimately causes it to fade..." (Emphasis mine...)
    Last edited by Loris Medici; 01-04-2012 at 01:35 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Added P.S.

  8. #8
    jorj's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    43
    I'd encourage you to take a look at Ruscombe Mill's "Herschel". It quickly became my favorite for kallitypes (primarily palladium-toned). http://www.ruscombepaper.com/

  9. #9
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Chicago
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,626
    Images
    151
    Well, time for a report. I tried to do kallitype on Platine and on Masa. Platine was mottled and difficuly to clear. I also did Weston Diploma, Platine and Masa in Vandyke. The Platine still had issues. The Masa looked great and cleared easily. The Weston also cleared easily. After gold toning, they looked much the same. I really wanted The Kallitype to work better, but it looks like VanDyke either on Masa or Weston is a winner for me. This weekend I'll finish my calibrations (I am using a process that must-not-be-named) and hopefully printing in the next week or two. I have to say, that Clerc's gold is really remarkable on these prints.

    Lastly, is it possible that my Ferric Oxalate went bad. I've had a dry jar for about 5 years and just mixed up a batch last week. That is the only other thing I could think of causing my clearing problems for Kallitype

  10. #10
    artonpaper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    325
    Images
    135
    Regarding ferric oxalate, I've had a jar for at least that long and it works fine. I have gotten mottled Kallitypes and found using fresh developer for each session worked well. Rochelle salt gave a nice image tone, no gold toning. I can vouch for both COT 320 and Herschel paper.

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin