Sizing final substrate for carbon printing?

[Bob Carnie]

Thank you and Andrew, You have helped me with my intents with Yuppo , it makes sense that the carbon would fall off in extreme situations , and we do get them here in Canada eh.
btw carbon will pop off diabond , due to the extremes in temp and humidity, makes sense that Yuppo will.


There is a thread on uncoated Bartya paper I believe on Kentmere stock.
what do you both think about that stock and its applications?

Here is a crazy question that I have that I have not seen the answer on any of the forums I frequent , and I think Sandy just thinks I am crazy , with this multiple hit craving.

I like to try Pt Pd as a first laydown with carbon as second hit, the substrate will be mounted to metal to avoid paper shrinkage and registration issues. Have either of you tried this or know of someone who has. This possibility really intriques me and need some advice or guidence to a possible paper that would work.
I envision laying down the pt pd first and then hit a second hit with carbon.
The problem with this will be finding the paper that works well with pt pd and then one that accepts carbon easily, Maybe some kind of coating that you are advising on Andrew?

Kind of like using a softer filter for highlight detail and #5 filter for contrast and density buildup in Silver.

Here in Ottawa we go from frozen winters to sweltering summers - I've had prints literally fall off Yupo with a change of season.

[Hexavalent]

...

Here is a crazy question that I have that I have not seen the answer on any of the forums I frequent , and I think Sandy just thinks I am crazy , with this multiple hit craving.

I like to try Pt Pd as a first laydown with carbon as second hit, the substrate will be mounted to metal to avoid paper shrinkage and registration issues. Have either of you tried this or know of someone who has. This possibility really intriques me and need some advice or guidence to a possible paper that would work.

Crazy idea? Yes... and I've done something very similar

I attempted carbon atop VDB and discovered several issues: the paper requirements for VDB (and many other iron processes) and those for carbon are very different. I use plain Canson or Strathmore Bristol for VDB; it's sturdy and has enough 'tooth'. However, I needed to apply a very generous layer of sizing/coating over the VDB so that the carbon would adhere. A single-transfer exposes the VDB to a lot of dichromate - it caused some bleaching/mottling. A double-transfer would likely lessen or eliminate that issue. (Pd/Pd is probably more tolerant to dichro.) After some tinkering, I produced a print with matte highlights and glossy shadows - not 'bad' looking, but not showing enough promise for me to spend any more time tinkering.

So, if you want to give it a try, I'd suggest starting with whatever paper works for your Pt/Pd process, and take it from there with a generous coat of gelatin, acrylic etc., before laying on the carbon.

Have fun!

[mark]

Silly question, but what is a hot dog roller?

Acrylic polymer seems like the simplest method if all you do is roll it on and zap it. Is zapping necessary? What does the polymer do to the texture of the paper? Anyone know about the effects of the polymer over time?

I would be very careful transfering onto Yupo. According to Sandy King, the image may "snap" off of it, if you live in a very dry region.

Bob, I'm really liking acrylic polymer sized art papers. After coating with the hotdog roller, I zap it in the drymount press for 2 minutes to "melt" the coating to give it a smooth surface with a very slight sheen. One thing that I want to try is making my own baryta coated paper. I need a business license to get my hands on barium sulfate, though. Denise Ross has an article at the Lightfarm: http://www.thelightfarm.com/Map/Pape...atingPart4.htm

There is also an article from 1914 Posted by Richard Sullivan over at B&S carbon forum.

[holmburgers]

I think photoformulary is going to get some more uncoated baryta paper if the demand is there.

We used this at the George Eastman House emulsion workshop with Ron & Mark Osterman.

I suspect it would make an excellent final support, and it's already prepared. Since it's barium sulfate in gelatin, a transfer would make "unity" with it just as tenaciously as any prepared final support. Although, I've personally never done it...

Thread here (seems Bob has beat me to it)

[Andrew O'Neill]

Sorry about that. A hot dog roller looks like this:

Any paint/hardware store will have 'em.

Bob, I've never tried that but have often thought about doing the same with a Kallitype print.