Sizing final substrate for carbon printing?

[mark]

Yes I could use fixed out photo paper but I don't have any. What I have is water color paper and gelatin. Is this advisable or is it an issue waiting to happen?

I am gathering everything I need to jump in and the paper is holding me back.

[Hexavalent]

Mark,

WC paper and gelatin can work. You will require some kind of hardener (chrome alum, formalin, glyoxal, glut etc.,).

Depending upon the weight and surface of WC paper, you may have to soak it in gelatin, or just brush on one coat.

In a pinch, cardstock brushed with dilute "white glue" and allowed to dry will work - it won't be archival though.

Hope this helps.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Or you could use matte acrylic polymer such as Golden GAC 100 and a hot dog paint roller.

[Bob Carnie]

Andrew- I have made carbons on fixed out silver paper, I am a novice at this but what would you suggest as a support for carbon printing that would give me the same kind of result as fixed out silver??
The price of silver paper is getting up there , not to mention the work to get it prepped for carbon transfer.

I am contemplating mounting Yuppo onto metal and using this as the base , anyone try this yet?

Or you could use matte acrylic polymer such as Golden GAC 100 and a hot dog paint roller.

[DarkroomDan]

Bob,
I have used Yuppo both as s support when making carbon tissue and as a final support. It works fine for both purposes without the need for sizing. It is dimensionally stable at the sizes I used (YMMV). If stability is the reason you are thinking of mounting it onto metal, you may want to try it without just to see if it works for you. You may be able to eliminate a step.

I really like Yuppo for tissue support but not so much as a final support. I don't care for the plastic look and feel of the finished print.

Dan

[Bob Carnie]

Thank you for your response.

I like the glossy look of carbon on silver fixed paper, do you think Yuppo gives the same kind of look?

I am using metal for registration work, and you are right with Yuppo I may not need , as I believe it does not shrink as paper does,

have you ever printed Pt PD on Yuppo??

Bob,
I have used Yuppo both as s support when making carbon tissue and as a final support. It works fine for both purposes without the need for sizing. It is dimensionally stable at the sizes I used (YMMV). If stability is the reason you are thinking of mounting it onto metal, you may want to try it without just to see if it works for you. You may be able to eliminate a step.

I really like Yuppo for tissue support but not so much as a final support. I don't care for the plastic look and feel of the finished print.

Dan

[Andrew O'Neill]

I would be very careful transfering onto Yupo. According to Sandy King, the image may "snap" off of it, if you live in a very dry region.

Bob, I'm really liking acrylic polymer sized art papers. After coating with the hotdog roller, I zap it in the drymount press for 2 minutes to "melt" the coating to give it a smooth surface with a very slight sheen. One thing that I want to try is making my own baryta coated paper. I need a business license to get my hands on barium sulfate, though. Denise Ross has an article at the Lightfarm: http://www.thelightfarm.com/Map/Pape...atingPart4.htm

There is also an article from 1914 Posted by Richard Sullivan over at B&S carbon forum.

[Hexavalent]

Here in Ottawa we go from frozen winters to sweltering summers - I've had prints literally fall off Yupo with a change of season.

[DarkroomDan]

Thank you for your response.

I like the glossy look of carbon on silver fixed paper, do you think Yuppo gives the same kind of look?

I am using metal for registration work, and you are right with Yuppo I may not need , as I believe it does not shrink as paper does,

have you ever printed Pt PD on Yuppo??

Bob,

Yuppo comes in more that one surface. The variety I have is like vellum and the prints I made on it are not the same as those I did on fixed out silver papers. They are also different than those on sized art papers.

Because I did not like the plastic look and feel I was getting, I did not transfer many prints to Yuppo. I haven't enough experience with it to class myself as an authority.

As to prints popping off, I hadn't heard of that before but I live in an area where the humidity is generally moderate all year round.

Dan

[gmikol]

One thing that I want to try is making my own baryta coated paper. I need a business license to get my hands on barium sulfate, though. Denise Ross has an article at the Lightfarm: http://www.thelightfarm.com/Map/Pape...atingPart4.htm

There is also an article from 1914 Posted by Richard Sullivan over at B&S carbon forum.

http://bostick-sullivan.invisionzone...ta-paper-1914/

For those who aren't members or haven't seen it.

If you use this method, you should be able to get the barium chloride and ammonium sulfate with less trouble. This is the method I plan on trying. I should note, though, that a local chemical supplier to me (Portland, OR) doesn't appear to have any restrictions on the purchase of barium sulfate listed in their catalog.

I suppose there might be restrictions on buying pharmaceutical-grade barium sulfate, though.

--Greg