Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,917   Posts: 1,556,410   Online: 1153
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13
  1. #1
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,053
    Images
    6

    Curious about ziatypes

    Has any APUGer did ziatype printing before? I was inspired by Kerik Kouklis's prints I saw in Yosemite last December. I don't know if they were ziatypes, but I'm hoping I could make some prints that have the same look. I don't think I can achieve the level of craftsmanship as Mr. Kouklis, but are ziatypes easy to do? I've made cyanotypes before. I don't want to use a brush with ziatypes like I do with cyanotypes because the emulsion is so expensive and don't want to waste any of the Ziatype emulsion. I plan to make a puddle pusher from the instructions published on The Light Farm. Is that the way to go? I want to start by getting a kit from Bostick and Sullivan so I don't have to do any mixing and go broke buying the palladium chloride. Any input is valued. I got bitten by the palladium print bug.

  2. #2
    Rick A's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    north central Pa
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    6,054
    Images
    33
    Have you tried looking the process up, I've been interrested in doing some. I found some info here: http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/ or http://www.alternativephotography.co...iatype-process
    I wouldn't mind seeing it done in person, maybe someone can do an on line seminar.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Istanbul, Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    651
    POP Pd printing (Ware-Malde or Ziatype) processes are easy. If you can do *good* cyanotypes, then you're good to go for pt/pd. (In fact, it's harder to make a *good* cyanotype!) BTW, you can use Richeson or DaVinci (5080 series) brushes w/o wasting extra sensitizer. (With my DaVinci, I use the same amnt. of coating solution as I need with a glass coating rod.) Edit: Just wet the brush with distilled water and squeeze the excess right before coating, it won't soak up and waste the sensitizer...
    Last edited by Loris Medici; 01-24-2012 at 05:09 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Added a remark

  4. #4
    Klainmeister's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Santa Fe, NM
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    1,493
    Images
    30
    Just order by the phone and have Dana or one of the other B+S folks to explain things clearly and help you out. They will take time to make sure you are doing it right.
    K.S. Klain

  5. #5
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Washington DC
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    8,410
    Blog Entries
    51
    Images
    433
    Ditto what everyone else has been saying about Ziatypes. They're easy-peasy. And I'll put in yet another vote for the Richeson 9010 "magic brush". Just soak it in distilled water between coatings, and squeeze off excess water just prior to coating. Minimal difference in coating volume required vs. rod coating, and you have far more control over emulsion distribution. Especially if your coating surface is not dead flat and level (but you should coat on top of a sheet of glass or plexi anyway, to smooth things out). Another thing to think about is - QUIT WORRYING ABOUT WASTE. Until your coating technique is flawless, you'll want to have enough excess coating to gauge the exposure by examining your borders. If you pour so little emulsion that you only have enough to cover the negative's surface area, you'll not have enough to judge exposure by, and run the risk of not having enough to actually evenly coat the entire image area. A little waste at the edges is far cheaper than throwing out a print because the exposure was uneven due to thin coating.

  6. #6
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,053
    Images
    6
    That's what I like about APUGers, they're always are encourage and very helpful. I will look for the Richeson 9010 "magic brush" and put my order in at Bostick and Sullivan. I'm also gonna build my own 20" x20" UV light source. OK TheFlyingCamera, I'll stop worrying about waste even though I'm cheap

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    127
    Images
    4
    i've been doing ziatypes for the last 10 years.. a great process, and a pretty easy one. Humidity is the big factor with it. my coating room is small, so it's easier to keep the humidity at a constant during coating (about 70% for my work). As far as brushes go.. even better than the Richeson are the brushes made by Tsuyoshi (Project Basho). He takes the Richeson bristles and puts them in a traditional wood Japanese handle. One of the only problems with the Richeson is the eventual corrosion of the metal ferrule. Tsuyoshi's modification gets rid of this. If you're ever in the Santa Cruz, Ca area. please let me know. .i'd be happy to give a demo

  8. #8
    payral's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    France
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    366
    Images
    78
    Quote Originally Posted by jimcollum View Post
    He takes the Richeson bristles and puts them in a traditional wood Japanese handle. One of the only problems with the Richeson is the eventual corrosion of the metal ferrule.
    It's very easy to improve Richeson brush to avoid corrosion.
    Here you can see how to modify in diffrent ways:
    http://payral.pagesperso-orange.fr/Richeson/index.html

  9. #9
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,053
    Images
    6
    Hi Philippe,

    Thanks for the tip. I looked at those brushes and a 4" brush is over $100 US! I will as Americans say "bite the bullet' and buy one.

    Thanks,
    Don

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    482
    Images
    14
    Maybe Kerik will chime in but FWIW the prints you saw at Yosemite were gum bichromate over palladium and straight DOP palladium, not Ziatype. Also Kerik teaches a printing workshop at the Ansel Adams gallery.
    Last edited by deisenlord; 01-24-2012 at 11:10 AM. Click to view previous post history.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin