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  1. #11
    Joe VanCleave's Avatar
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    I exposed several still life images today with the Harman 4x5 FB Direct Positive paper. I rate the paper at ISO1.6 and preflash. Development is in fresh developer mixed from concentrate at 1:15 at 68f. Camera used was Anniversary Speed Graphic with 150mm binocular lens stopped down to 20mm aperture (about F/11 at the bellows extension). The lighting was indirect north-facing daylight.

    ~Joe

    Dulcimer (Exposure 15 seconds):


    Front Wheel (Exposure 45 seconds):

  2. #12
    zsas's Avatar
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    Wow!!!!!!!! Want a Titan now, and I thought I had my GAS in order
    Andy

  3. #13
    Kevin Kehler's Avatar
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    I think I am going to order a box in my next shopping spree, this is too interesting.

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe VanCleave View Post
    I exposed several still life images today with the Harman 4x5 FB Direct Positive paper. I rate the paper at ISO1.6 and preflash. Development is in fresh developer mixed from concentrate at 1:15 at 68f.
    How did you pre-flash to get the result your needed? (I know the general ways of doing it, I want to know which method you used) I wonder if I loaded some up for a car trip, how the delay between exposure and development would affect the image (assuming a 4-5 hour difference from exposure to development)?
    Once a photographer is convinced that the camera can lie and that, strictly speaking, the vast majority of photographs are "camera lies," inasmuch as they tell only part of a story or tell it in a distorted form, half the battle is won. Once he has conceded that photography is not a "naturalistic" medium of rendition and that striving for "naturalism" in a photograph is futile, he can turn his attention to using a camera to make more effective pictures.

    Andreas Feininger

  4. #14

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    Excuse my ignorance, please, but could this "film/paper" be somehow used as a medium to do direct printing of slides in the darkroom? Would it be possible to project the 35mm slide (color positive) onto this directly and then process it, and have a B&W enlargement of one's slide made? Thanks for any info or telling me I'm way off my rocker here is fine too...

  5. #15
    keithwms's Avatar
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    Joe that dulcimer image is great!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jedidiah Smith View Post
    Excuse my ignorance, please, but could this "film/paper" be somehow used as a medium to do direct printing of slides in the darkroom? Would it be possible to project the 35mm slide (color positive) onto this directly and then process it, and have a B&W enlargement of one's slide made? Thanks for any info or telling me I'm way off my rocker here is fine too...
    Sure, you can do that, although the paper probably isn't as red sensitive as you'd like; if you can find sensitivity curves for it then you'll see what I mean. I have made perfectly acceptable paper negatives from slides using ordinary (red insensitive) photo paper. So... definitely try it, you will probably like the result. If reds don't look right, try projecting through a green or blue filter, it may help.

    Note that you can easily enlarge your slides onto panchromatic b&w film and then contact print the resulting negs... another route that works very well.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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  6. #16

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    I have a Voigtlander Avus (9x12) whose plate holders require a septum for inserting sheet film, so I am wondering if this stock would be thick enough to dispense with the septum . . . may need to order some to try out :-)
    Nikon 35mm, Mamiya 645 & RB67, Leica IIIb, other bits and pieces

  7. #17
    Joe VanCleave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Kehler View Post
    I think I am going to order a box in my next shopping spree, this is too interesting.



    How did you pre-flash to get the result your needed? (I know the general ways of doing it, I want to know which method you used) I wonder if I loaded some up for a car trip, how the delay between exposure and development would affect the image (assuming a 4-5 hour difference from exposure to development)?
    I used the same preflash setup that I use for preflashing paper negatives, which is a type S-11 light bulb (120vac, 7.5 watts, standard base, frosted white round globe about the size of a table tennis ball, available in hardware stores) mounted inside a light-tight enclosure with a 3mm aperture, mounted 30 inches above the work surface in the darkroom. My typical preflash times for grade 2 paper negatives is about 8 seconds, whereas with the Harman DP FB paper I preflash for about 3.5 seconds.

    I haven't tested the time delay effect with the Harman paper, but with grade 2 paper negatives I've not noticed any depreciation of the preflash effect over a period upwards of a week's time.

    Jedidiah: This paper, like most, is sensitive mostly to UV and blue, meaning that it would take an extremely long exposure to do so using tungsten light in an enlarger. Plus, also keep in mind that its tonal range is actinic to orthochromatic, and the black-and-white renditions of your color slides would not show much exposure in the warmer tones like the reds.

    ~Joe

  8. #18

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    Thank you for the replies, much appreciated. That satisfies my curiosity, then - an interesting development, but probably not something I could use much at this point. I see it would be awesome if one had an 8x10 LF camera setup!

  9. #19
    ColdEye's Avatar
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    Just a question, do you need to trim the sides so it will fit in a 4x5 holder?? I can't get it to fit my 4x5 holder, I already sacrificed a few sheets and it looks like it is a bit wide.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by ColdEye View Post
    Just a question, do you need to trim the sides so it will fit in a 4x5 holder?? I can't get it to fit my 4x5 holder, I already sacrificed a few sheets and it looks like it is a bit wide.
    I found the same thing with my 4x5 holders (Fidelity plastic I believe). I trimmed my paper maybe a 16th of an inch and they fit perfectly.

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