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  1. #21
    Monophoto's Avatar
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    Inspired by Jim's article on the alternative photography site, I also made my own frame using 1x2" poplar. I used birch cabinet-grade plywood for the back, and ordinary window glass.

    Rather than cut a rabbet into the poplar, I milled a 1/4" strip that is 1/4" wider than the width of the frame material. I routed a bevel on one edge, and then face glued this to the frame to create a piece with a rabbet to hold the glass. The reason for this was that I needed the full thickness of the frame material to hold the glass and hinged back.

    Rather than metal springs, I attached four small (1/4") blocks that I attached to the frame with screws. These blocks serve to hold the back in place.

    The back has a sheet of black foam on the inner face, topped with a layer of black felt. The felt/foam layer is compressable, so when the back fits into the frame and the blocks are turned to hold it in place, the foam/felt layer compresses to hold the negative/paper in place. The hinge is full width.

    The overall cost was significantly less than purchasing a new printing frame, and it was a fun project last winter.
    Louie

  2. #22

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    Dear Louie,

    Well thats really nice of you to say that I inspired you, its not often that anyone says thnaks let alone that.

    I must admit that the back bellowed out on mine and I had to turn it upside down so that it would grip the paper/neg firmly.

    The people who designed those old ones must have ahd the same experience and got round it by usning the centre spring. I notice further back in this thread that some frames have wooden springs. I never would (wood) have though if that, what a good idea, plywood is after all quite flexible. I will either make another or convert my own when I get round to it, as they say.

    Kind regards - Jim
    There are only three things in life worth doing, art food and work, the order is merely alphabetical and if you can combine the first and the last ............

    ---------------------------------------------
    Toned Cyanotypes for sale
    http://www.jrbham.btinternet.co.uk/index.html

  3. #23
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    In a college course many years ago we made VDB and cyanotypes with half-tone negatives. These should be similar to computer generated transparencies if the transparency ink or toner is opaque to UV. If so, once a good half-tone has been made, VDB or cyanotype exposure is very consistant. A hinged back may be unnecessary. Flourescent lights with high UV output are much more convenient than sunlight.

  4. #24

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    Here's a nice one for sale on eBay UK;
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Split-Back-5-x...QQcmdZViewItem

    Would be very easy to make one similar, lots of pics to copy from.

    Jim
    There are only three things in life worth doing, art food and work, the order is merely alphabetical and if you can combine the first and the last ............

    ---------------------------------------------
    Toned Cyanotypes for sale
    http://www.jrbham.btinternet.co.uk/index.html

  5. #25
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    I've made very simple contact printing frame with registration system
    Here http://www.f295.org/DIYforum/cgi-bin.../m-1145201740/
    you may find construction process description

  6. #26

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    Dear Alexei,

    That's a really good idea I should think anyone could make one of these, my local £1 store sells hole punches in pairs.

    Regards - Jim
    There are only three things in life worth doing, art food and work, the order is merely alphabetical and if you can combine the first and the last ............

    ---------------------------------------------
    Toned Cyanotypes for sale
    http://www.jrbham.btinternet.co.uk/index.html

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