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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephanie Brim View Post
    Why don't you buy the pre-mixed emulsion if you're worried about chemicals? I mean, yeah, it's pricy, but it'll coat a lot of paper.
    Then I would have to sort out all the development etc, the cool thing about cyanotype is the fact that it develops/fixes in water.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by m1tch View Post
    Hmm the quest continues! lol I wonder if I created a negative on a cyanotype, then waxed or oiled it to make it transparent, then tried to use it in an enlarger - I have heard of it being done with paper negatives. Hmm I wish there was a simple and safe way of creating images in camera that doesn't require a lab of chemicals or certain expensive chemicals. Its almost easier to pay the extra and get a large format film and make cyanotypes like everyone else lol but thats just not as fun lol
    its funny that you are doing that ..
    i have been working on that same trip for a few years now.

    cyanotype might be the way to go but the exposure times are so slow
    unless you are using a f1 you are kind of held prisoner by your process.
    that is why i have settled on using either photo photo paper in camera
    to make in camera non chemical prints, or hand coated paper with store bought liquid emulsion.
    you GET an image without chemicals but they are unstable. liquid light i have noticed
    doesn't fade like commercial paper. i have some in my desk drawer i made over a year ago
    that still look like i made them yesterday, commercial paper has turned grey sitting right next to it.

    i have a tank of super saturated salt water i plan on soaking some of my prints in to stabilize them ( yeah i know wishful thinking )
    but my plan is to stabilize them to last long enough for an additional exposure in the sun for an hour or 2 after being waxed.

    so, eventually, like you, my plan is to be without a darkroom or the need to use one ...

    probably tomorrow i will make an exposure, maybe a photogram, and test the salt water.

    i doubt it will do much ...
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
    artwork often times sold for charity
    PM me for details

  3. #13
    Stephanie Brim's Avatar
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    Oooh, of interest:

    http://www.costaricacoffeeart.com/al..._or_plates.php

    I will not fall down this rabbit hole. I will not fall down this rabbit hole. I will not fall down this rabbit hole. I will not fall down this rabbit hole.
    No idea what's going to happen next, but I'm hoping it involves being wrist deep in chemicals come the weekend.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephanie Brim View Post
    Oooh, of interest:

    http://www.costaricacoffeeart.com/al..._or_plates.php

    I will not fall down this rabbit hole. I will not fall down this rabbit hole. I will not fall down this rabbit hole. I will not fall down this rabbit hole.
    Come on down the rabbit hole, we have cake and everything thanks for the link, I know you can tea stain cyanotypes but never thought about using coffee lol worth a try, the sodium thiosulphate is an old school fixer. Does seem a bit of a waste of coffee though lol :P although this is still contact printing method, but seems slightly quicker than a cyanotype.

  5. #15
    Stephanie Brim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m1tch View Post
    Come on down the rabbit hole, we have cake and everything thanks for the link, I know you can tea stain cyanotypes but never thought about using coffee lol worth a try, the sodium thiosulphate is an old school fixer. Does seem a bit of a waste of coffee though lol :P although this is still contact printing method, but seems slightly quicker than a cyanotype.
    Mr. Nanian is actually the coffee expert. I've developed film using coffee before, but I haven't done it for years. Heh.
    No idea what's going to happen next, but I'm hoping it involves being wrist deep in chemicals come the weekend.

  6. #16
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    I do like cyanotypes, especialy toned with coffee or tea. Bostick-Sullivan sells a kit for doing them that works real good.

    For a negative though, it makes sense to spend the $1 on a piece of film from Ilford/Arista/Foma (or more from Kodak). You just shoot less compared to 35mm or 120.

    Cyanotypes aren't free either. The non-buffered paper for that costs something. Tintypes and liquid emulsion probably cost more than doing images with film.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by jp498 View Post
    I do like cyanotypes, especialy toned with coffee or tea. Bostick-Sullivan sells a kit for doing them that works real good.

    For a negative though, it makes sense to spend the $1 on a piece of film from Ilford/Arista/Foma (or more from Kodak). You just shoot less compared to 35mm or 120.

    Cyanotypes aren't free either. The non-buffered paper for that costs something. Tintypes and liquid emulsion probably cost more than doing images with film.
    Then you have the development costs on top as well as the other accessories like a changing bag, but I guess you would shoot less on large format, its not like you can attach a motordrive to it!

    I have seen some cyanotype kits on the market, with all the chemicals and paper etc, but its probably going to be easier for me to simply get the chemicals separately, I know that the Potassium ferricyanide is easy to get as its used a lot in art, its just the Ferric ammonium citrate (green) thats slightly harder to get it seems. I'm just going to experiment with the technique and see what happens really, it seems that if I do want a faster in camera process the easiest method is indeed film lol

    I have also been told that using simple watercolour paper is fine to use for cyanotype, I might even try something really basic as my first few test prints, I also have a feeling im going to need a UV lightbox as I live in the UK lol

  8. #18

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    you might not want to use water color paper for your "negative"
    it is too thick and will be a PITA to get light and uv rays to pass through.
    if you are planning the cyanotype route for your negative, use the thinnest
    paper you can find ... non watermarked stationary, xerox paper of some sort.
    you will probably have trouble because it is recycled paper is is buffered
    but there are ways to resolve that at least for the short term ...
    its easy to wax ( the flickr vid i posted for you over on the lf forum )
    with just a hot plate and a little wax ...

    you can probably use sunlight, after all talbot was from england and he just used sunlight
    to make both calotypes and salt prints .. facial tanning lamps are pretty cheap ..
    just get some welding goggles

    have fun !
    john

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by m1tch View Post
    I have also been told that using simple watercolour paper is fine to use for cyanotype, I might even try something really basic as my first few test prints, I also have a feeling im going to need a UV lightbox as I live in the UK lol
    Yes, as long as it is cotton-based. I use Fabriano 50% cotton in various thicknesses and it works well for me, and is not too expensive. Non-cotton (or silk) papers fall apart when wet. Not always and not quickly, but sooner or later it will ruin a print that you liked. And it will not last as long as cotton paper.

  10. #20

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    I will get a mix of different papers and weights and do some test copies I think

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