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Cross process C-41 film stand developed in Rodinal (B&W chemistry)
I've got about 10-15 old Kodak Gold films from 200-800 speed, I know I will have to drop the speed by a stop because they are all old and haven't been kept well. But I figure they would be good to practice some stand developing with cross processing in B&W chemistry. I've only done this once in Ilfsol 3 and the images were very dark and hard to see even after scanning.
There are various rules but I wanted to ask the experts.
I've shot a roll of this a few years ago and processed normally and the images were really grainy and dull so I would prefer to use this as B&W but also would like to stand process it and I've read that Rodinal is perfect for this, and since its finally become available again I bought some and would love to try it on this x-process. However I have the following developers available if there is a better choice in order of preferred and available...
Rodinal (Adonal)
HC-110
Ilfsol 3
DD-X
D-76
Thanks for any advice on times and dilutions (like 1:50 for Rodinal or 1:200 etc) as well as shooting EI for a stronger image to cut through the thick orange base when scanning. ALSO as I said its old film but for consistency sake, let's assume its new C-41 film and I'll do any age compensation.
Thanks!!
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
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hi stone
never done it in rodinal
but i have processed both e6 + c41 in coffee
the orange ( and yellow ) masks are killer
but if you can get through them, you get smooth grain.
http://www.apug.org/forums/members/j...evelopers.html
stand develop like everything else ... 25-30mins
the developer was about 4months old, unreplenished ..
good luck !
john
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 Originally Posted by jnanian
hi stone
never done it in rodinal
but i have processed both e6 + c41 in coffee
the orange ( and yellow ) masks are killer
but if you can get through them, you get smooth grain.
http://www.apug.org/forums/members/j...evelopers.html
stand develop like everything else ... 25-30mins
the developer was about 4months old, unreplenished ..
good luck !
john
Well it's more I'm fairly sure you're supposed to over expose by like 1 or 2 stops, also what ratio of Rodinal to use to stand rather than worry about over developing, though I assume it's different than with regular B&W because of the difference in silver content in the C-41 film?
So... that kind of info would help, but it's good to know the images would be blue, I did SOME x-process in Ilfsol 3 with C-41 it was HUGE grain and very dark, I didn't over expose long enough, but again I want to try stand development rather than just normal development.
I think you sent the cafinol recipe but I haven't tried it yet. I will, but working on other things first. Thanks for the info so far.
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hi stone
i haven't done this yet but check out jim noel's post ( #29 )
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/4...acturer-3.html
25mins soaked in the coffee nothing but the coffee ( no vit c, no soda ) ..
so ... if you make a pot of instant coffee, and don't add any of the other ingredients, it will process your color film too.
jsut bracket your film, and have about 1/2 to burn ... it might work for your color in b/w xperiment.
have fun !
john
Last edited by jnanian; 01-31-2013 at 09:27 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: found and added the link
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Cross process C-41 film stand developed in Rodinal (B&W chemistry)
A good ballpark to use when stand developing with Rodinal is 1:100 for 1 hr. at normal 20C/68F. Agitate normally at the beginning, and then a few slow agitations in the middle of the dev time. I haven't tried this with C-41 films, though, only B&W.
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Cross process C-41 film stand developed in Rodinal (B&W chemistry)
 Originally Posted by Terry Christian
A good ballpark to use when stand developing with Rodinal is 1:100 for 1 hr. at normal 20C/68F. Agitate normally at the beginning, and then a few slow agitations in the middle of the dev time. I haven't tried this with C-41 films, though, only B&W.
Thanks! I'll try
~Stone
Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
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we have results!!!!
           
The most interesting are the last 4. I decided after seeing jnanian's purple images he scanned in color, that I would scan two in color to see what came out. I didn't get ANYTHING close to the purple he did, however, what's REALLY interesting is that... and tell me if I'm wrong... the RED ribbon in the image looks .... RED... not super red, but it certainly seems to have a pinker/redder hue than the sled or the surrounding scenery. Is it possible that somehow the Rodinal I used had some kind of actual dye in it... I mean the rodinal itself is slightly pink... or some other way that the film though developed in B&W somehow still has a slight color tone to it?
Anyway, Film is Kodak Gold 200 shot at EI50 (Because after research I read that it's a good idea to over expose by two stops, probably partially because of the dark base) and stand developed in Rodinal 1+100 for 1 hour as suggested by Terry Christian (Thanks Terry!!!)
I was using a Zeiss Ikon Contina III so focus was done by eyeballing distance so only a few are spot on since I was shooting at about ... well I THINK it was 5.6, honestly I can't be sure as there's no arrow to where the correct aperture is supposed to be but I would assume center would be where it is (I really need to look up the manual haha) so the shutter was about 1/30 almost the whole time so between the hand held, small aperture, and slow speed, I'm shocked at what I got, but happy.
What do you think?
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Very nice results. I wonder how they would print on an enlarger?
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Cross process C-41 film stand developed in Rodinal (B&W chemistry)
They look great, Stone! In fact, the tonality reminds me of chromogenic films like BW400CN and Ilford XP2 Super; now you know why we're always crowing about those films.
They also look a tad bit overexposed, as if you could have used an EI of 50 instead if 100. Still, they should print nicely -- you certainly captured all the shadow detail.
Great stuff!
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