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  1. #21
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Talk to Bob Carnie about this.

    PE

  2. #22
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    Try developing at a lower temperature. I stick to 39C.

  3. #23
    Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    that I then dilute 1:3 with acetone (5ml + 15ml).
    Hi Vaughn,
    With this amount of acetone, how long does it take your tissue to dry (taking RH, etc into consideration)? I've always used 1:1, but if it speeds up drying I may give it a go. Thank you.

  4. #24
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    Also, I noticed visible differences between supports treated differently (more or less sizing, one or two coats, more or less formalin). Hot-dog rolling leaves a relatively rough texture, which I am concerned might create micro-bubbles or weaker points during mating. So even if up to 10% concentration is suggested for gelatin, I prefer two coatings of 4% and roll until the gelatin starts to set and yields a finer texture
    .

    Have you tried pouring a small amount on the support and coating with a copper pipe? You end up with a nice, smooth surface. Smooth surfaces seem to work better.
    I size my papers with acrylic medium (hot dog roller). They have a slightly rough surface when dry, but when I zap it in a dry mount pres,. I end up with a very nice, smooth surface.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill View Post
    Hi Vaughn,
    With this amount of acetone, how long does it take your tissue to dry (taking RH, etc into consideration)? I've always used 1:1, but if it speeds up drying I may give it a go. Thank you.
    One hour in Sacramento, two hours in Eureka. I do not use any material between the negative and the tissue, so I wait a little longer than may be needed to insure that I do not damage the negative. The additional volume also helps (I think -- not tested) to get the dichromate evenly spread around and into the tissue (since I am using a thick tissue -- 1.2 ml of glop per square inch).

    Vaughn
    At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.

  6. #26
    Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Thanks Vaughn.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill View Post
    .

    Have you tried pouring a small amount on the support and coating with a copper pipe? You end up with a nice, smooth surface. Smooth surfaces seem to work better.
    I size my papers with acrylic medium (hot dog roller). They have a slightly rough surface when dry, but when I zap it in a dry mount pres,. I end up with a very nice, smooth surface.
    Wouldn't copper mark the paper? Maybe a puddle pusher or even a wine bottle or a Voss water bottle would do the job.

    Your post got me to thinking though. I was getting more and more micro-blisters and loss of sharpness in my image (see attached pic) so there was definitely something wrong with my sizing. I also got lots of tiny shiny spots in the dried sizing, which I accounted for the blistering or highlight damage.

    In absence of a dry mount press, I tried ironing the dry, sized paper at a low setting, putting a sheet of photocopy paper in between. I just pulled a print from the dev bath and it looks so much better! It's a bit early to say I found a solution, but that might be a big improvement.

    Thanks,
    gm
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mlg_carbon_blistering.jpg  
    SoFiET
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  8. #28
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    No it didn't mark the paper. I keep it nice and shiny. I keep it in a bath of hot water before I coat. A puddle pusher would work, but it should be wider than the support paper.
    How soon do you use the paper after its been sized?

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill View Post
    How soon do you use the paper after its been sized?
    I hang it outside for a couple of days, to let the formaldehyde do its job and to let the nasty gasses out.
    SoFiET
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