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  1. #21
    davidrborquez's Avatar
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    awesome results m1tch!

    I'm as well doing my first cyanotypes and Van Dyke brown copies of some negatives (I prefer not to use digital prints so they are 4,5x6cm contacts) using UV lamps as well, but I wasn't sure if oiled paper would work... now I know it does very well!

    cheers!

    here's what i got - not as sharp but not too ugly :P
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    Last edited by davidrborquez; 06-05-2013 at 10:22 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #22
    Klainmeister's Avatar
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    Well done! Welcome to APUG!

    Both of you consider getting the cheapest red wine you can find and start toning both these types of prints in it. Cheap black tea works well and green tea has interesting effects.
    K.S. Klain

  3. #23
    davidrborquez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klainmeister View Post
    Well done! Welcome to APUG!

    Both of you consider getting the cheapest red wine you can find and start toning both these types of prints in it. Cheap black tea works well and green tea has interesting effects.
    hey, good idea! wanna see how wine reacts... i'm gonna do some cyanotypes in coloured paper too

  4. #24
    Klainmeister's Avatar
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    Cheaper the better. The tannin in the wine will react.I have a 11x14 cyanotype toned first in red wine from a box (made it deep reddish/purple) then finished with green tea, making a nice blend of soft brown highlights and deep purple blacks. Something worth playing with. The best smelling toners I know of.
    K.S. Klain

  5. #25

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    I have found online that if you use coffee and tannic acid, then washed in Soduim carbonate.

    Here is the image, its very close to black and white:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/9314116@N06/7615157908/

    Taken from the description below the image:

    Cyanotype
    Dry
    Coffee+Tannic Acid wash
    Sodium Carbonate wash
    (Repeat Coffee+Tannic acid wash , Sodium Carbonate Wash)
    Rinse in cold Water
    Dry.
    I had thought this cyanotype was ruined when I did the first Sodium carbonate wash - the image developed ugly brown spots.
    Thankfully I finished processing anyway. The spots faded once the paper was dry - Whew!

  6. #26

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    Ok, so I have now got myself some inkjet transparencies and have created some digital negatives, I knew that the exposure time would be different but its like night and day!

    Oiled paper = around 10 minutes
    Transparencies = around 1 minute

    Yes thats right, 1 minute per print, I tried a print at 10 minutes and 5 minutes and both were overexposed massivly, I have put the timer on basically the minimum that the face tanner can go on and its pretty much spot on, I will take a photo of one of the prints, its amazinly sharp, high contrast, really nice colour and no mess or contamination on the print.

    The inkjet transparencies aren't that cheap, but printing 4 on an A4 sheet its not too bad, I think it works out at something like 25p a sheet but these negatives will last and they really are amazing to look at - this would still be cheaper than a large format negative so I am happy

    I might get myself one of those exposure timers that cuts the power off making it slightly easier to get the exposure right, I might also create a colour chart with a gray scale and then expose it at different times to see at which point the best contrast is attained.

    I am amazed at the sharpness of the print though, its even on rough watercolour paper but you can tell its sharp.

  7. #27

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    Right, here is the comparison between a basic oiled paper print and a more expensive inkjet transparency:

    Oiled on the left, transparency on the right, exposure time for paper was around 10 minutes, transparency was around 1 minute:



    Oiled paper printed ok, but you can see some loss of sharpness in some parts due to the oil not evenly soaking in and some contamination (spots) at the top. What is also obvious is the lack of detail in the sky, the negative image would have had this quite dark and this might have basically blocked all of the UV out as there is also the layer of paper.



    This is the transparency, it is sharp across the image and you can see definition such as the thin lamp posts and sharp edges on the bridge structure, you will also notice the sky is actually there this time - this is the same image just printed on an inkjet transparency and printed using a very cheap old printer! The print is slightly over exposed, this would be due to the much much shorter exposure time due to it not having a paper layer to have to go through, its quite a bit more expsensive to print like this with the transparency being the main cost of the whole print, but at least the negative can be used over and over again without issue. In general the overall toning is much better with the buildings being rendered in shades of blue rather than white, again the transparency image is overexposed, however it shows the difference.


  8. #28

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    Good work! I am running into the same issues with lack of mid tones from oiled paper negatives. I don't have a printer at the moment, so if I can convince someone to let me run off a couple images I might try the transparancies.

    Thanx for keeping up the work!


    -Xander

  9. #29

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    The next thing on the list is to print off this zone system and then do timed exposures - ie print say 10 of these down a page and gradually uncover them at timed intervals so I can check the exposure on my setup.


  10. #30

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    Maybe you should consider a step tablet negative such as Stouffer's T3110 or the PDN version of it. Much more easier and reliable... Plus, since many others has this types of negatives, the test results (made with these) that you're going to share will be much more telling to others (for instance, it will definitely tell if the process is behaving as expected...), therefore, you'll have a higher chance of getting the right answers.

    Regards,
    Loris.
    Last edited by Loris Medici; 06-09-2013 at 05:40 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: fixed typos

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