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  1. #31

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    93
    Hi m1tch,
    I thought you might be interested in the transparency sheets I used... they are very inexpensive (100 sheets for $20) from ebay:
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hammermil...item43bd6efc17
    best regards,
    mark (dinosaur cyanotype guy)

  2. #32

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Kearney, NE
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    24
    I'd like to thank the OP for sharing his technique. It opened my eyes (for the first time) to the possibility of making paper negatives with a laser printer (as opposed to inkjet on transparency). With access to an 11x17 laser printer/copier at work, I can suddenly make 11x17 negatives (without buying an expensive large format ink jet printer).

    Doing a little more research on this, I found this very informative video which uses white beeswax instead of oil. I'm passing it along in case anyone else finds it enlightening.



    I find the idea of the beeswax a little more appealing than the oil method. For one thing, it seems like you avoid the longer drying time of oil and it seems a lot less "messy". Also, while you can certainly do this on regular 20 lb. bond paper, I plan to try loading the copier with 16 lb 11x17 vellum (hopefully you can use vellum with the beeswax technique). The Vellum is thinner and more transparent (even without the oil/beeswax) and so should result in an even more transparent negative.

  3. #33

    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    172
    Thanks, i'm glad that its helped someone out, I am aware that you can wax the paper instead of oil it, I thought I would just try oiling it as it was to hand, I like the process because you can make cheap prints and with the modern technology of printers its now easy as you don't need an enlarger or inter negative to get a large image.

    I am going to hand coat some more paper tomorrow I think, I still have loads left, hopefully it hasn't gone off!

    I might also look into using some sort of filter as some of the exposure times on negatives that aren't as dense are getting quite quick, I am tempted to get a photographic timer which will turn off the UV much more predictably.

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