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  1. #1

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    Kallitype toning question

    Hi All,

    i have been doing some some Kallitype prints lately and everything looks fine until the bleaching in the fixer pretty much ruins it for me. I have tried printing darker etc, but the whites just bleach out to a point I don't find appealing. Rather than give up I was wanting to try some toning first before fixing. From the B&S instruction sheet, to 1 ltr of citric I add 5ml of gold or pd/pt. I have palladium and my questions is how long does the toner last? 5ml is a lot to blow in one go.

    Thanks for your time.

  2. #2

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    I've been doing some Van Dyke brown recently, which is similar in many respects to Kallitype. Bleach back in the fixer can be a problem with either process. Be sure to use a dilute fixer. I use a 5 percent sodium thiosulfate solution, but many recommend 3 percent. Do not use ammonium thiosulfate. For VDB, where the silver sensitizer washes out in the developer, fixing is limited to one minute in the diluted fixer. Read up on the process a bit to see what is recommended for what you are using. I have been toning in GP-1 before fixing for my latest batch. It works decently well, with only a slight change in image tone toward pink. Unlike untoned VDB, there is practically no change in color when the image is fixed. My guess is that extended fixing would still bleach the image.

  3. #3
    Klainmeister's Avatar
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    Are you asking how long the toner remains active or how long until it's depleted? 5ml of PD should do quite a few 8x10s and 11x14s
    K.S. Klain

  4. #4

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    Use this formula; the stock solution has a very good shelf life (at least 3-4 months) and it works wonderfully with any of the iron-silver processes.

    Regards,
    Loris.

  5. #5
    Gadfly_71's Avatar
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    Just to echo what others have said, make sure that you're not using a "rapid" fix. For VanDykes (which are similar to Kallitypes) I use 1 heaping tablespoon of hypo crystals to 1ltr/1qt distilled water.

    For toning, I use an ammonium thiocyanate/gold choride toner before fixing. It keeps well and lasts quite a while in its stock form.

    Also, if you're getting a lot of bleaching during the fix you may want to overprint a bit (in addition to using a more dilute fix).

  6. #6

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    Padraigm,

    Try this link to Sandy King's article at the Unblinking eye:
    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Ka...kallitype.html

    Kallitypes should be toned before fixing. Pd toner lasts a long time time. Use only about 50 ml for an 8x10 print and use a flat bottomed tray.

    Alan

  7. #7

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    Christopher James recommends adding 5mL of household strength ammonia per Liter of fix to prevent bleach back and to fix for not more that 2 minutes in a 5% solution.
    Thomas

    No art passes our conscience in the way that film does, and goes directly to our feelings, deep down into the dark rooms of our souls.
    — Ingmar Bergman

  8. #8

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    Thank you guys for all the suggestions. Alan are you saying just use 50ml per print and discard?

    Thanks

  9. #9

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    Padraigm, I use only 20ml gold-thiourea per 8x10 print following this procedure: I prepare a 150ml initial batch, then I discard 20ml from the batch and add 20ml fresh stock solution before toning for subsequent prints. You'll only need an occasional (about one each month) filtering afterwards...

    Hope this helps,
    Loris.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by padraigm View Post
    Alan are you saying just use 50ml per print and discard?

    Thanks
    I use the toner only once so I wasn't aware of Loris' method. If used one shot, use as little as you can to just cover the print you are toning.

    Alan

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