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  1. #11

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    Find this thread really interesting, and hate to ask such a newbie question but how are you reading DMAX? With a densitometer? As an aside can relate that at least with the Zia's I've been working on that HUMIDITY was a major factor with what I have done..like if it was to low, sometimes nothing would happen..just faint images. Only recently started using COT320 and have found the paper very nice, was using Cranes Kid finish - read really thin paper, but when things came together the blacks were really nice. Just not something I have been able to reproduce each session.

    Sorry for the interruption, but you read and hear so much about DMAX, had to ask.
    Mike C

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  2. #12

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    Sorry Mike,

    You must have been entering your response to Clay as I was typing in mine. That damage you mention is part of why I switched to brush coating. The other reason is a mottling of smooth tones (sky areas showed it most).

    Those both went away once I left the brush behind.

    I was able to get great single coats with the rod, but never able to get good double coats at all.


    Good luck to you.


    ---Michael
    www.mutmansky.com
    B&W photography in Silver, Palladium, and gum bichromate.

  3. #13
    nze
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    HI all
    I use rod or rush on Cot whitout any problem , even when I double coat to get more separation in the black. As wrote Clay the double caot give more seperation in the black of the print really interesting in low key image . When the image is mostl gray it do not bring a lot but with dark tone image it's great.

    I also agree with Michael about the way to produce higher Dmax with platinum print.
    The only way I find easy is multi coating and exposure ziatype. By this I mean I coat once , expose, coat another time expose again and his another time.

    It work nicely with ziatype . The total exposure of the 3 layers should be the total equivalent o the time needed for 1 exposure. The funny thing of the proces is that the contrast could be control with any of the layers.The first time I use this method I start with the low contrast and ended with higher one.But now when I use this I start with high cotrast to set the black line and then bring the gray level. With this procedure I can get Dmax betwen 1.7-1.8 depending on the paper.

    regards
    Chris Nze
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  4. #14

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    Christian,

    Do you clear between the exposures, or do you slap on another layer of solution without clearing? I haven't tried the Zia mthod of pt/pd, so I don't know which approach would make the most sense.


    ---Michael
    www.mutmansky.com
    B&W photography in Silver, Palladium, and gum bichromate.

  5. #15
    nze
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    Hi Michael

    I just don't clear between the exposure. So there is no shrinking problem . Crane's cover or platinotype give me better result that COt or arches platine with this modus operandi. Gold can't be use with his method as it is so unnstable that it turn purple as there is a new layer. But I tryed with other voponent like platinum, tungstate , caesium and it work well.

    I never try with traditional, I wil make a try tonight.

    CHristian
    Chris Nze
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  6. #16
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    I have an extra 2 hours before work today and I really don't want to delve into Catullus or Virgil just yet so I'll give this a shot. Using traditional pd only I'll coat once, expose, coat again, expose, and then develop. I have the same print dry so I'll see if there is any difference. I'll post back when the results are in.
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  7. #17

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    How do you keep the registrations exact with this method?
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  8. #18
    nze
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    If you got black border the registration can be done this way

    But as I don't clear the print between the caot I just use to stick my negtive to a sheet of mylar or what ever transparent and stick this sheet of mylat to my paper. So I make the first print lift the negative which stay fixed to the paper , dry, then put back the negative in his positiion. that the easier way .

    CHristian
    Chris Nze
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by nze
    The total exposure of the 3 layers should be the total equivalent o the time needed for 1 exposure.
    I know I read this, but for some reason my hand just cranked the timer to 15 minutes intead of 7.5 both times.

    edit: I just dried the print in the microwave to speed things up and I can't see any difference in the dmax. This is on Stonehenge Rising extra white.
    Last edited by Jeremy; 02-08-2005 at 01:13 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: print is dry
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  10. #20
    nze
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    I mean with black border you can register the nagtive and the print with the black border.
    Chris Nze
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