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  1. #11
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    I use 2 oz and swirl it around in a jar for 5x7 size... 4 oz for 8x10 size. You could scale up to use in a tray once you figure out the pH.

    Whether or not there is any incorporated developer, I don't know. There is some component of the emulsion that acts like developer even if that is not the main purpose of it. And it exhausts quickly, before development is complete... that's a "feature" we can use to our advantage to get a little development without having it run away and turn the paper completely black. I've only tested MGIV and Adorama VC RC, and don't know how general this is or if it would work with other papers. I have a stack of solargraphs I fixed more than a year ago and they are still fine.

    I am very happy just having a preserved negative image with all the details still there... color shift DID happen. So this doesn't solve the OPs problem!

  2. #12
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    This thread might be relevant too. You can also purchase the ammonium thiocyanate stabilizer from Freestyle already made. I'm going to try NaSCN.

  3. #13

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    I'll just reanimate this thread to note that I've been following Wolfgang Moersch's photostreams on Ipernity and Flickr recently, and he's been posting a series of lumen prints, some gold toned and some not, but all fixed with Ammonium thiocyanate ... and they look fantastic.

    There are colour shifts between the fixed and unfixed, but the colours remain vivid and beautiful

    (He's also been showing chromoskedasic Sabatier prints - equally beautiful, by the way - and he's selling stabiliser & activator for that process from his shop; and of course the stabiliser is ... Ammonium thiocyanate)

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