This are awesome results.
Off Topic, would you mind telling more about how you are doing reversals (may be even in separate thread if you wish).
This is the combination I've settled on for reversal processing after a fair bit of trial and error. I've come to the conclusion that, regardless of the approach you take, you'll always have to work through a few disastrous results before you get where you want to be. I only mention this as the caveat "Your milage may vary"...
Ilford FP4+ rated at 125 ISO - It has a pretty transparent base and projects well.
Ilford PQ Universal - A paper developer, mixed two different ways...
Developer 1: PQ Universal mixed 1+5 with the addition of 12g/L of Sodium Thiosulphate (For 300ml of working chemistry that's 50ml PQ + 250ml Water + 3.6g Sodium Thiosulphate)
Developer 2: PQ Universal mixed 1+9 (For 300ml of working chemistry that's 30ml PQ + 270ml Water)
Potassium Dichromate solution (10g/L) + Sodium Bisulfate solution (65g/L) - These need to be mixed 1:1 for a working solution
Note 1: Everything I've read suggests that you should mix these two solutions together just before using them, but I've happily kept them both mixed together in a 1L HDPE bottle for months at a time. I also reuse the bleach too, until it's so cloudy that I'm guiltily motivated into mixing up a fresh batch...
Note 2: Yes, dichromates are nasty, but I use them in both Gum and Platinum printing so I'm confident in handling them carefully. You could use a Potassium Permanganate + Sodium Bisulfate bleach as an alternative to dichromates, but I've not experimented with that... I've read that Permanganate bleach can soften the film emulsion to the point where it's easily damaged. I've had no such problems with a Dichromate bleach.
CLEAR: Sodium Sulphite solution (50g/L)
Note 1: I keep this mixed in a 1L HDPE bottle and reuse it until it changes to a blue green colour.
Note 2: If you're going to use a Potassium Permanganate bleach instead of a Dichromate bleach, you'll need to swap out Sodium Sulphite for a Sodium Metabisulphite solution (30g/L)
Ilford Rapid Fix mixed 1:4
Note: This gets reused for what seems like forever, as there's very little to fix out at the end of this process...
Note: All chemistry must be brought to 20 Degrees C
Developer 1: 6 minutes, agitate for 10 seconds, pause for 20 seconds, agitate for 10 seconds, repeat. Dump this developer at the end.
Wash: Fill the tank with tap water, dump. Fill the tank, invert 5 times, dump. Fill the tank, invert 10 times, dump. Fill the tank, invert 20 times, dump (Ilford Wash Method).
Bleach: 3 minutes. Tap the tank well at the start to dislodge bubbles, invert 10 seconds every minute. Pour Bleach back into the bottle for reuse.
Wash: See above.
Clear: 2 minutes. Tap the tank well at the start to dislodge bubbles, invert 10 seconds every minute. Pour Clear back into the bottle for reuse.
Wash: See above.
Fog: 3 minutes. Start the timer and open the tank. Expose the film to light with the film still on the reel. I hold mine up to a ceiling spot light (a little 50W halogen). After 3 minutes, put the reel back in the tank and click the lid closed.
Developer 2: 4 minutes, agitate for 10 seconds every minute. Dump this developer at the end. This development stage takes things to completion, so I don't think it's possible to overdo it.
Wash: See above.
Fix: 4 minutes, agitate for 10 seconds every minute. Pour Fix back into the bottle for reuse. There isn't much left to fix out, so 4 minutes is probably overkill. I ere on the side of caution as I reuse my Fix a fair bit.
Final Wash: Fill the tank with tap water, dump. Fill the tank, invert 5 times, dump. Fill the tank, invert 10 times, dump. Fill the tank, invert 20 times, dump. Fill the tank with filtered (RO) water, invert 20 times, stand for 2 minutes, dump. The final RO water stage has completely gotten rid of the drying stains that plagued my early efforts - you could probably skip this if you live in a soft water area.
And, that's about it..! I know that washing between stages is probably overkill, but it minimises the carryover between stages, so my Bleach, Clear and Fix last for ages and ages. But yeah, it works for me and after processing 30-40 rolls over the past 8 months, I seem to be getting pretty consistent results. Oh, one helpful tip... If your first attempt results in film that is too thin, reduce the first Dev time for a denser positive (took me ages to work that out).
Hope that helps!
A new development...
Three more projectors ready to go...
Hmmm, why stop at six..?