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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by wm blunt
    eggshell,
    I am still trying to use the Pearl White Cranes (new) and it works if I mask the negative and coat paper with glass rod. It needs only a short rest before drying, just until it looks even and loses it's gloss. When I tried coating with a brush and leave the brush strokes they almost soaked thru the paper. Sure wish I hadn't bought a life time supply!
    Thanks for the kind comments.
    Wm Blunt
    Thanks for joining. Do you mean masking with Rubylith? ...Trying to imagine how masking can help. Do you think sizing helps?

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by eggshell
    Is it smoother than platinotype? Don't scare me, but is it too white? Thanks!
    I don't think it is smoother, as far as white goes..hmmmmm I would say it is pretty white, but if you search the threads here, Kerik mentioned toning paper down a bit by using dilute tea (plain tea from a tea bag or such and not TEA). Probably not a bad idea to purchase small lot of different papers to see what you like if possible. I have been doing that, 25 sheets at a time to get a feel for the paper that will work for me.

    Good luck
    Mike C

    Rambles

  3. #13

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    Yes, I use rubtlith or orange base line masking sheets. It does sound odd that masking would make a difference but it's probably that when I mask a negative I use a coating rod instead of a brush. Possibly I am letting the solution build up a bit too much outside the neg. area or letting it rest too long before drying. Haven't done a lot of testing with it yet but do know it is a lot more absorbent than the older paper. The one print I made with it when I masked the neg. and used the coating rod looks great, like the other paper.

  4. #14

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    William,

    If the paper is too absorbant, you may want to try sizing the paper with gelatin. That should make it much less of a problem.

    Of course, I don't think that sizing the paper is worth it unless the paper has a specific characteristic that you find worthwhile, because there are many pt/pd papers out there that don't need any sizing at alll and work wonderfully. So this procedure is only worth consideration when you have a copelling reason to use the paper (like a lifetime supply sitting in your darkroom!).


    ---Michael
    www.mutmansky.com
    B&W photography in Silver, Palladium, and gum bichromate.

  5. #15

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    Thanks to all for sharing your experiences. It's been very helpful. Really appreciate it!

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by photomc
    I have been doing that, 25 sheets at a time to get a feel for the paper that will work for me.
    I just saw that B&S has ~11x14 platinotype in 25sheet packs for $23. I just bought a box to try out.
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  7. #17

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    Michael,
    I totally agree, I don't think I want to bother with sizing the paper as there are plenty of others. As I mentioned the paper works and makes a nice print if coated with a rod and dried rather quickly.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Moore
    I just saw that B&S has ~11x14 platinotype in 25sheet packs for $23. I just bought a box to try out.

    Sure you noticed this, but the actuall size of this is 11.5 x 14.5 - thought would mention it in case you are using 11x14 contact printer. If memory is correct though your is larger isn't it? This is nice paper...interested in how you like it.
    Mike C

    Rambles

  9. #19

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    Thanks again to everyone for the additional input. Good day!

  10. #20

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    After working with the Cranes 90# cover Pearl paper I have to "backtrack" on my previous statements about the paper. Although it is a bit softer than the older version the prints look exactly the same. I use tape to mask off the area to coat and use brush for coating. Working with about 50%RH I let the paper rest one minute before drying with heat. Great blacks and a good range of tones.

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