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  1. #1

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    Anyone try Ware's "New" cyanotype?

    I mixed it yesterday for the first time, and I'm a bit worried that I goofed. The solution is still strongly green, and I think it's supposed to be yellow. Could the room lights have been too strong? I did it under ordinary bathroom lighting, only realizing afterward that it might be too bright.

    The one way to find out, of course, is to coat some paper and try it, but I won't have the opportunity to do that for a while.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by psvensson
    I mixed it yesterday for the first time, and I'm a bit worried that I goofed. The solution is still strongly green, and I think it's supposed to be yellow. Could the room lights have been too strong? I did it under ordinary bathroom lighting, only realizing afterward that it might be too bright.

    The one way to find out, of course, is to coat some paper and try it, but I won't have the opportunity to do that for a while.
    Coat your paper and print! The proof is in the pudding!

    Your solution sounds okay.

    Don Bryant

  3. #3
    nze
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    Hi,

    you may filter it and th filteer will keep some blue particles and leave a yellow green solution.
    Chris Nze
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    It is very important that you filter it well to remove the residual crystals and sediment.

    Michael

  5. #5

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    I've filtered it twice. I just tried to wash out some coated but unexposed paper, and it won't clear fully. So I've got fogging going on, but I don't know if it's due to light or the chemicals...

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    Well, I got in touch with Dr. Ware, and his guess is that the ferric ammonium oxalate may have been exposed to light. He suggested adding more dichromate to counteract that. I helped to some extent - the fog is a little less noticeable, but the paper is still fogged as soon as the sensitizer is dry. Also, blue precipitate keeps forming in the sensitizer even though it's stored in the dark.

    Bostick & Sullivan shipped the ferric ammonium oxalate in a white plastic bottle that obviously lets through light. That doesn't seem like a good idea. According to Ware, the solid salt is sensitive down to green light. I've written to B&S about that, but haven't heard back yet.

  7. #7
    nze
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    Hello svensson,

    The fog may come from the paper.
    I use to coat my ware cyanotype under a 15 watt tungsten light. I let it dry 5 minutes without air and then 5 minutes with cold air. I found that long drying or to hot dring could create fog with the paper I use (Arches platine, Buxton platinotype or cappelades). so I just coat the sheet I'll use ten minutes after.

    I only mix 100 ml of solution at time and filter it before each session as you I got some blue precipitate even if I kep the bottle in the dark . I got 2 ammonium Ferric oxalate , one came in a dark box and the other ( BS) come in the white plastic. They both precipitate.

    I prefer to over expose a little and to use a solution of 1% Hcl to clear instead of the citric acid solution. The citric acid solution is safer for the highlight but a little weak for the clearing.
    Chris Nze
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  8. #8

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    That's interesting. I've tried both Crane's Kid Finish and 90 lb cover, which I believe is sold as "Platinotype" under another brand. I've coated under an even weaker bulb than yours, practically in the dark. I've tried hot hair dryer and overnight air drying with the same results, but I haven't tried cold forced air. Time to see if the hair dryer will do that...

    I thought the purpose of acidifying the clearing bath was to prevent excessive clearing of the blue salt? If you want more aggressive clearing, wouldn't you just let the water be?

  9. #9
    nze
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    Quote Originally Posted by psvensson
    I thought the purpose of acidifying the clearing bath was to prevent excessive clearing of the blue salt? If you want more aggressive clearing, wouldn't you just let the water be?
    Hi,

    The acidfying of the first clearing is here to help the unused ferric salt to clear out of the paper. You need one acid bath to help clearing but at the same time it is also a little aggressive to the image.

    I am lucky enough to have soft water at home ( not hard water). SO I can let my cyanotype all the night without any clearing. but if you havehard water it will bleach the print which is different from clearing.

    Bleaching make the image less dense
    Clearing take out the unused salt.

    Any acid bath will help to get a more brilliant cyanotype and any alkaline bath will bleach the cyanotype.

    Cyanotype may also bleach if you use a alkali matt board .
    Chris Nze
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  10. #10

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    Thanks, Christian. That clears some of the confusion from my mind!

    This morning I did as you suggested and dried a coated strip in cool air, then exposed it as soon as it was dry. It cleared out fine, so I guess that's the way to go. Thanks again! The d-max was light, but I think that's because I couldn't leave it out long enough in the weak morning sun.

    Have you tried other cyanotype formulas? I got some pre-coated paper from blueprintables.com which I assume is the traditional formula. It printed fine a month later, but the picture is grainy and the gradation is harsh, two things I'm trying to get away from with Ware's formula.

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