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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking

    I do routinely double coat for additional Dmax and have not had any problems, though you do need to calibrate for it since double coating lengthens exposure times.

    Sandy
    I'll have to try double coating on COT-320. I am getting about 1.11 Dmax on actual prints (though some tests were higher). What is the highest Dmax you have gotten with Kallitype? I believe I have seen posts where printers claim to be getting as much as 1.5 double coating palladium.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by philsweeney
    I'll have to try double coating on COT-320. I am getting about 1.11 Dmax on actual prints (though some tests were higher). What is the highest Dmax you have gotten with Kallitype? I believe I have seen posts where printers claim to be getting as much as 1.5 double coating palladium.
    With double coating I can easily get around 1.46 on coth COT-320, Stonhenge and Lenox. Once or twice I have gotten up to 1.55 but can not readily replicate it. Just wish I could bottle the environment that gives that kind of Dmax. Am thinking it was real high RH plus lots of other positives.

    However, even with single coating I am getting Dmax in the 1.38 and above range.

    Sandy

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by philsweeney
    I'll have to try double coating on COT-320. I am getting about 1.11 Dmax on actual prints (though some tests were higher). What is the highest Dmax you have gotten with Kallitype? I believe I have seen posts where printers claim to be getting as much as 1.5 double coating palladium.
    Hi Phil,

    I've gotten as high as 1.51 DMAX by double coating palladium on Cot 320, however as Sandy mentioned I can't get that consistently. Typically my DMAX for Palladium is around 1.42.

    As for kallitype I've not bothered measuring DMAX due to my staining problems but from just making a visual assement I would guess the DMAX to be in the range of 1.35 - 1.4, but that's really a crude guess.

    Don Bryant

  4. #14

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    With a double coat on COT-320 I just got 1.38. Maybe with a new batch of FO I can get more. I am quite pleased and that's obviously much better than 1.11! Thanks!!!

    On a different matter: Except for the COT-320, a few of the papers I used have had blotches that even out in the pd toner. So I never tried selenium toning, thinking it would not even out post fix. I did a selenium toned print last night and the chocolate brown is nice. Double coated I got 1.3

    I continue to be impressed with the "friendliness" of the COT-320 and repeatability.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    Hi Tsyyoshi,

    I leave the print in the developer until it is almost completely cleared. Generally this takes less than two minutes, but some stubborn papers may require as much as 6-8 minutes. The subsequent wash (between developer and clearer) is also important. If the water of this was is very alkaline it will set the iron salts and make them very difficult, or impossible, to remove. This is one of the reasons I sometimes go to a very long development time.


    Sandy
    I have been doing some palladium as well as kallitype printing over the past two weeks and would like to share a couple of observations in continuation of this thread.

    First thing of interest is that a batch of 100 sheet of Stonhenge that I purchased about nine months ago that gave very low Dmax at the time is now working beautifully. So far as I can determine there is no difference in my technique or working conditions! Go figure.

    Second, what I am finding right now is that any kind of wash after development, short or long, leads to a stain that will not clear out. I checked the pH of my tap water and it is running about 7.6, which is fairly alkaline, so I can understand why this is happening. My remedy is to develop for a normal time, then transfer directly to a fresh solution of clearing bath, which in my case is 3% citric acid. I am getting very good clearing with this procedure.

    In fact, when using a toner made with citric acid there is really no point in washing the priint after clearing, so in essence this procedures simplfies processing quite a bit by avoiding two wash bathes. The only down side is that you need to replace the first clearing bath on a fairly regular basis as it will pick up more iron salts and silver nitrate than if you wash first. But citric acid is almost dirt cheap so this is not a big issue.

    Finally, if you are double coating be sure to use only the amount needed to coat the paper, otherwise you might also have clearing problems. You should use just enough so that you can cover all of the paper that is to be coated and even out the sensitizer with light brush strokes in about ten seconds. If you so much sensitizer that it takes a long time to brush it out, chances are that it will penetrate deeply into the paper fibers and this will lead to clearing problems, greater with some papers than with others. But for sure with Stonhenge a couple of light coats is much better than one thick one.

    Sandy
    Last edited by sanking; 08-11-2005 at 09:47 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    But for sure with Stonhenge a couple of light coats is much better than one thick one.

    Sandy
    Hi Sandy,

    I have been double coating COT-320 with 2 ml total solution per 8 x 10 (each coating). I have not tried thinning it out at all. Do I understand you thin it out? I have not achieved the Dmax mentioned here, but the improvement is good, and worth the time. Fortunately no clearing problems!

    Any thoughts on whether a third coat would be fruitful for increasing Dmax even more?

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by philsweeney
    Hi Sandy,

    I have been double coating COT-320 with 2 ml total solution per 8 x 10 (each coating). I have not tried thinning it out at all. Do I understand you thin it out? I have not achieved the Dmax mentioned here, but the improvement is good, and worth the time. Fortunately no clearing problems!

    Any thoughts on whether a third coat would be fruitful for increasing Dmax even more?

    I sometimes mix the second coating 1:1 with distilled water. Dmax is about the same, whether the second coat is straight or 1:1 with water.

    Sandy

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    I sometimes mix the second coating 1:1 with distilled water. Dmax is about the same, whether the second coat is straight or 1:1 with water.

    Sandy
    Any difference from the people who are doing their first coat 1:1 with water?
    Let's see what I've got in the magic trash can for Mateo!

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  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy Moore
    Any difference from the people who are doing their first coat 1:1 with water?
    I don't know anyone who is doing that. Most people use a 1 part 20% ferric oxalate + 1 part 10% silver nitrate for the first coatings, and usually the same for the second.

    Sandy

  10. #20
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    Hi everyone,

    I was a little concerned about how much the paper is absorbing the solution. I used to use a glass rod to coat, but now I started using the magic brush which I need some practice.

    I usually use 3 ml/coat when I print from 7x17 negatives. I just assumed it should be good since many people seem to suggest 2 ml is sufficient for 8x10 negatives. Should I try to reduce the amount?

    I will also try to eliminate the washing process. I only use small paper to check pH of the solution, so it is rather hard to tell any small deviation. But I know it is around pH 7 in my situation.

    Thank you again for your input.

    Warmly,
    Tsuyoshi

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