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  1. #11

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    Hi to all. I shoot photo paper in my Holga all the time. I then develop the paper normally and make a contact print. It is small but it works. Some I scan and make big prints out of.

  2. #12
    medform-norm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Carnie
    I am with Ann on this one

    We have had photographers use Cibachrome sheet paper in the film holder and with long exposures, different filter combos on the camera, have come up with very beautiful prints.
    Basically a very slow colour polaroid camera , I think it would work with any format 4x5 and up.
    Once you have your filter balance with all things being equal one would need only to carefully meter under similar lighting scenes
    I have a Ciba machine here for anyone wanting to experiment with this method , *no charge to test till you get your balance*. Then I will come up with a process charge.
    We only process the CPS, Clmk and Cfk papers so if you do not like gloss this would not be for you.
    CPS-HIGH CONTRAST, BEST COLOUR SATURATION
    CLMK- MEDIUM CONTRAST, GOOD COLOUR SATURATION
    CFK- LOW CONTRAST-REQUIRED FOR CONTRAST SCENES GOOD COLOUR
    Hi Bob, good to know and thanks for the offer. I don't know if we are patient enough to ship exposed sheets to Canada from Holland and wait to see what comes out. It should be possible to find someone/a lab who does it here.
    Is it possible to develop this paper at home? I've seen a place where you can order the chemicals for it, but have no idea what the process would involve in terms of equipment needed.

  3. #13
    medform-norm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthewt
    Hi to all. I shoot photo paper in my Holga all the time. I then develop the paper normally and make a contact print. It is small but it works. Some I scan and make big prints out of.
    Yeah, that's basically the idea. Can you upload some scans to show what they're like? Or do you have a link to a webgallery? We'd be curious to know what your results are! Especially with regards to the contrast you can achieve.

  4. #14
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    Hi There
    you absolutely can do it at home in a roller transport device. The chemicals are expensive by the way but very usable
    have fun,
    I imagine there are lots of labs in Europe willing to do this for you.

  5. #15
    medform-norm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Carnie
    Hi There
    you absolutely can do it at home in a roller transport device. The chemicals are expensive by the way but very usable
    have fun,
    I imagine there are lots of labs in Europe willing to do this for you.
    uhm... roller transport device....uhm, what's that? what does it look like? We're only familiar with a very rudimentary B&W darkroom using trays etc. Can't the Cibachrome be developed in a tray as well?

  6. #16
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    If you contact print through the paper, you can try some old pictorialist tricks, like retouching on the back of the paper neg with pencil to bring up highlights or mask shadow areas, or you can bleach shadows locally on the emulsion side.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  7. #17

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    hi mf-n,

    i shoot paper negatives pretty often in my 8x10. you'll have to trim the edges of the paper ( 8x10 film isn't really 8x10, but about 1 or 2/32" less all around ). you'll also want to underexpose the paper a little bit --- you want a "thinner" paper negative, with less contrast. i usually use fogged and olde paper and process it in oxidized ansco 130 developer ( dilute ) with a second bath of regular + water to control my contrast & development.

    good luck!

    -john
    Last edited by jnanian; 11-08-2008 at 03:34 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #18
    medform-norm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian
    hi mf-n,

    i shoot paper negatives pretty often in my 8x10. you'll have to trim the edges of the paper ( 8x10 film isn't really 8x10, but about 1 or 2/32" less all around ). you'll also want to underexpose the paper a little bit --- you want a "thinner" paper negative, with less contrast. i usually use fogged and olde paper and process it in oxidized ansco 130 developer ( dilute ) with a second bath of regular + water to control my contrast & development.

    good luck!

    -john
    Hi John,

    that sounds pretty good. Thanks for your advice. Suppose you underexpose the neg in order to control contrast later when printing through the paper? What film holder gives you the best flatness of the paper? What paper has given you the most pleasing results till so far?

    I guess what we're looking for is a way to get bigger negatives (like 8x10) but without the entailing costs. Holland is not a country with many large or ultra large format photographers. Hardly anyone shoots 8x10, sheet film is very very expensive, choice of film is limited if at all available and we need to send the negs somewhere to get them developed. We can't have a real dark room w/enlarger as we have only temporary housing and we never know when we need to move. Not something that is workable for our situation at the moment. That's why we hoped the paper negs route would be a viable option. It's exciting to hear it may be.

    Cheers, mf-n

  9. #19
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    I would absolutely *NOT* print the ciba chrome through trays. The Bleach is very agressive, smelly and unpleasant
    Jobo roller drums are sufficient. Lots of people on this site using them.

  10. #20

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    Hi Norm, I started making paper negs with single weight Kodabromide enlarging paper when I was about 7 or 8. I used a 620 Kodak Box Brownie. Shortly thereafter, I started making paper negs with a pinhole camera. I have sporadically continued to do this ever since (often making enlarged paper negs). Currently, I use Variable Contrast RC paper but single weight fiber based paper also works fine. I've never had any flatness problems.
    Tom Hoskinson
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    Everything is analog - even digital :D

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