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  1. #11
    scootermm's Avatar
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    thanks for all the replys... I got busy with work stress and forgot I posted this... saw it and was amazed at all the replies...

    Jorge no offense taken. Ive tried using potassium dichromate as a contrasting agent and just hated the muddy results it gave. Im really wanting to try out pd printing to be able to adjust contrast especially with the image like the congress one you mentioned jorge.

    All the images (except the east6thstreet) were shot with my 14" commercial Ektar f6.3 lens. The east6hstreet image was shot with a 300mm Konica GRII process lens. I used JandC classic 200 developed in 1:1.5:100 using development by inspection and the brush developing method in trays.

    Jeremy, the BMW in that one shot was something I wavered back and forth on removing or leaving in... I kinda liked the resulting twinge of "modern" it gave. and Ill be sure and toss them all out immediately

    Mike the congress street one was actually shot in complete rain. I had a black garbage bag over the beastly 7x17 that shot is one Ive wanted to take for some time now... usually that parking lot is filled with cars... but given the rain and the early sunday morning it was wonderfully empty. I do want to try and take another negative of it to gain more contrast. .... eventually I will.

    Daniel, all the images are printed on platinotype. I was suggested to try out the Richeson 9010 brushes (what many refer to as the "magic" brush) it coats wonderfully and doesnt absorb barely any chemistry. I can manage to coat for a 7x17 sized negative with as little as 2.75ml so its worth its weight in gold. ( I bought two 2" brushes one for van dyke and one for the eventual pd printing )

  2. #12

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    Jorge no offense taken. Ive tried using potassium dichromate as a contrasting agent and just hated the muddy results it gave. Im really wanting to try out pd printing to be able to adjust contrast especially with the image like the congress one you mentioned jorge.
    I dont know if it would work, but with pt/pd sometimes people use hydrogen peroxide. This might work for you. I have to brush up on VDB, but it seems to me you could use many of the tricks we use with pt/pd. Restrainer in the developer as opposed to the emulsion. Maybe potassium chlorate instead of dichromate.

    In any case, just wondering around Austin you are comming up with great shots.

    I dont know if it is still there, but there used to be a Holiday Inn that had a cilindrical shape right next to a bridge and the lake, seems to me this bridge with the water would make a nice under the bridge shot...

  3. #13

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    Nice shots! Really makes me want to see the actual prints.

    Regarding contrast, I notice Wynn White's article on unblinkingeye, http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Vandyke/vandyke.html, mentions the use of a reducer to increase contrast after fixing. This is what I do with cyanotypes: develop, then reduce to proper contrast with an alkaline bath.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jorge
    I dont know if it would work, but with pt/pd sometimes people use hydrogen peroxide. This might work for you. I have to brush up on VDB, but it seems to me you could use many of the tricks we use with pt/pd. Restrainer in the developer as opposed to the emulsion. Maybe potassium chlorate instead of dichromate.
    None one of the things that work with Pt./Pd. for adjusting contrast work with VDB. Many of the experts, includiing people like James, suggest that you can control contrast in VDB by adding dichromat to the sensitzing solution or to the developing water, but this just repeats the same BS you see in previous books. It won't work, all it does is make exposure times longer without changing the exposure scale.

    The only way I ever found to control contrast with VDB was to mix up a separate solution using ferric citrate and then combine this in varying proportions with the regular VDB solution. Don Bryant I believe has used this. It work, but changes the color of VDB from brown to a rust brown.

    If you want to continue to use VDB with your in-camera negatives you will need to develop for more contrast. Assuming you agree with those who have suggested that your images need some more contrast. Or, you can try kallitype based on ferric oxalate, where you have all of the contrast controls available with Pt./Pd.

    In any even, thanks for posting the images. I like them a lot.

    Sandy

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by psvensson
    Nice shots! Really makes me want to see the actual prints.

    Regarding contrast, I notice Wynn White's article on unblinkingeye, http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Vandyke/vandyke.html, mentions the use of a reducer to increase contrast after fixing. This is what I do with cyanotypes: develop, then reduce to proper contrast with an alkaline bath.
    Yes, this technique does increae conrtrast slightly, but not very much, but it also reduces Dmax. I don't recommend it.

    Sandy

  6. #16
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    thanks for the reply sandy.
    Im finding I prefer the method of tailoring the negative for the process as opposed to going through the numerous chemical contrast adjustment possibilities.
    Im a bit of a simplist in that regards... for me at least, it seems easier to go about it in this manner. Some of my negatives end up working amazing in VDB then others dont.... still learning.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by scootermm
    thanks for the reply sandy.
    Im finding I prefer the method of tailoring the negative for the process as opposed to going through the numerous chemical contrast adjustment possibilities.
    Im a bit of a simplist in that regards... for me at least, it seems easier to go about it in this manner. Some of my negatives end up working amazing in VDB then others dont.... still learning.

    Basically VDB requires a negative with a very high DR, at least 1.95 and sometimes higher, if one wishes to print the entire scale. As you can see VDB has a much longer ES than even straight palladium.

    If you are shooting in low contrast situations most films available in 7X17 format will not give you enough contrast, no matter how long you develop. So yes, we always want to adjust the negative as much as possibole to the process, but the films that we use limit us to certain contrast range scenes in VDB much more than is the case with kallitype or Pt./Pd. This assumes that we want to capture the entire tonal range of the scene.

    Sandy

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    Basically VDB requires a negative with a very high DR, at least 1.95 and sometimes higher, if one wishes to print the entire scale. As you can see VDB has a much longer ES than even straight palladium.

    If you are shooting in low contrast situations most films available in 7X17 format will not give you enough contrast, no matter how long you develop. So yes, we always want to adjust the negative as much as possibole to the process, but the films that we use limit us to certain contrast range scenes in VDB much more than is the case with kallitype or Pt./Pd. This assumes that we want to capture the entire tonal range of the scene.

    Sandy
    interesting sandy... your statement "this assumes that we want to capture the entire tonal range of the scene" or the entire tonal range possible with the print.... It feels like, for me, in my limited knowledge and experience, that its more about what tonal range makes the print look how I wanted it to look when I decided to capture the scene. for instance (to use two of the prints I posted) the congressST image doesnt create the tonal range I saw and wanted at least not to its best potential. The tonal range (which may not be the full extent of the scale possible with VDB) in the peyton image does and did result in a scale I wanted and saw. The door being bright and vibrant and the shadows and mid tones being just how I saw them.

    so its an interesting point you bring up sandy. lots to think about and likely lots to eventually learn and experience on my end.

    sidenote: what sorts of films would, in your opinion, work better to achieve this range? films like efke 25? etc?

  9. #19
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    Something to try that I've had some early success with is Freestyle APHS ortho film. It's available in 1417 I believe so you would just cut it down under a red lamp. Efke 25 is beautiful but pricey. I splurged for some for the 11X14.
    He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep..to gain that which he cannot lose. Jim Elliot, 1949

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com

  10. #20
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    Matt, looks like you've hit stride with the 717. Of this group, I like the last two best. Wonderful job!
    Semper Fi & God Bless America
    My Photography Blog

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