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  1. #11

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    Well I got one up on you guys, I tried coating without fixing first. I figure if the pd replaces the silver when toning, there should not be a reason for it not to replace when coating. It worked fine, but it was hard to get the yellowish tone out.

    OTOH I like the look of watercolor papers, why coat on baryta paper? better to just make a silver print and tone it in pd or pt, much easier.

  2. #12

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    Interesting Jorge, would not have thought about it, but from previous discussions about how the plt/pld replaces silver makes sense. Also, seems like I recall reading somewhere that COT320 is used to make some Bergger silver papers, just don't recall what or where I read it......may not be true. I still like COT320/Platine and sure can't see much reason to go through fixing paper, then re-coat. But then I still have a lot to learn, so may change that thought later. The albumin makes more sense on the other hand, would seem like it would be like difference between glossy and matt finish silver paper.
    Mike C

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  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by photomc
    Interesting Jorge, would not have thought about it, but from previous discussions about how the plt/pld replaces silver makes sense. Also, seems like I recall reading somewhere that COT320 is used to make some Bergger silver papers, just don't recall what or where I read it......may not be true. I still like COT320/Platine and sure can't see much reason to go through fixing paper, then re-coat. But then I still have a lot to learn, so may change that thought later. The albumin makes more sense on the other hand, would seem like it would be like difference between glossy and matt finish silver paper.
    I let you know in a week, I have the albumen denaturating now. I am also going to try just overcoating an already made print, this might be a better solution than sizing the paper.

    My purpose is not to get the maximum Dmax possible but to get a "cleaner" look that sometimes the dry down messes up.

    I did not like the baryta paper look, my thought was why go to the trouble of making a pt/pd print that is going to look like a toned silver print? Anyhow, to each his own, give it a try you might like it.

  4. #14
    nze
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    Jorge

    I also prefer to use Watercolor paper and handmade paper to print my platinum palladium. But It was funny to see how much it increase the detail in a platinum print to coat on a fiber based paper. I just some of my underwood scene on Cot320 and Baryted paper and I should admit that working on COt Make me loose a lot in the fine detail , even if I use a spot source and a vacuum printer.

    Platinum on fine art paper has is own limit in details. But My goal in platinum is not for the detail but the tone.
    Chris Nze
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  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by nze
    Sandy

    Coating fix out paper is not as difficult as this it depend on the paper you use. I 've got great result bu using an ilford paper called ilfomar. with this paper I jst need to add 3 drops of Tween 20 to get a good coat of the platinunm , cyanotype and kallitype sensitizer. I think it should work with other process but as I 've never try I am not sure.

    With this paper Idon't need to heat the paper or any other magic bullet, Just need to coat like I do with other paper let dry and expose, like I do with any other paper.
    for sur ethe clearing is a little longer and it is better to avoid using platinum as it make the clearing impossible

    Christian
    What kind of paper is Ilfomar? I don't have any of it and thought I would try something similar.

    Sandy

  6. #16

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    Ilfomar

    Sandy-I believe Ilfomar was one of the GREAT papers that was made in the sixties. Don't hold me to the date. I have no idea where Christian found. I have some Haloid contact paper from 1952 I would be willing to send you gratis if you want to try the above procedure. Paper still works fine. PM me.
    Best, Peter Schrager

  7. #17
    nze
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    Hi Peters and Sandy

    Peters is trus it is an oldilford Paper made mostly for the french market. It was a paper dedicated to the portrait, semi matt surface and fixed graded.

    I also tryed some Bergger paper before they add the silver in it, just baryted paper . But glossy or mat the coating wasn't easy. I keep this paer for carbon printing.

    With ilfomar the coating is really easy just need to take out the excess of solution.

    To get this paper I contact all the portrait photographer near my home. They also have great royal kodura paper.
    Chris Nze
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  8. #18

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    Was wondering if coating with albumen would have any impact on the archival properties of a plt/pld print? I realize that there are many albumen prints that are well over 100 years old (saw some yesterday), but looking at them got me to wondering what impact either pre or post coating with albumen would be. Are the proteins altered to a more stable state by the chemicals in the process?

    One other question, what would be the difference between coating, post exposure, with albumen and waxing with one of the fine art wax?

    As always, Thanks in advance.
    Mike C

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  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by photomc
    Was wondering if coating with albumen would have any impact on the archival properties of a plt/pld print? I realize that there are many albumen prints that are well over 100 years old (saw some yesterday), but looking at them got me to wondering what impact either pre or post coating with albumen would be. Are the proteins altered to a more stable state by the chemicals in the process?

    One other question, what would be the difference between coating, post exposure, with albumen and waxing with one of the fine art wax?

    As always, Thanks in advance.
    I tried the wax thing and did not work worth a damn. I saw little change in the print properties.

    Albumen has great keeping properties if processed correctly, remember gelatin is nothing more than another organic material. The problem can be yellowing and the cracking, both of which are avoided by the addition of acetic acid and plenty of stirring...

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jorge
    I tried the wax thing and did not work worth a damn. I saw little change in the print properties.

    Albumen has great keeping properties if processed correctly, remember gelatin is nothing more than another organic material. The problem can be yellowing and the cracking, both of which are avoided by the addition of acetic acid and plenty of stirring...
    Well, that makes sense and I knew we had albumen prints that have lasted a long time. Wonder if egg albumen is any better than say bovine or pork. I know they are made from different components...will have to give it try. Maybe find some of the powered albumen they sell at some of the scientific web sites, if they sell it in small enough quantities.
    Mike C

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