Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,713   Posts: 1,514,712   Online: 854
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Ya, It works!!

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    4,813
    Images
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by James M. Bleifus
    Sandy,

    What sort of DMAX are you seeing in your Kallitypes?

    Cheers, James
    I am getting about 1.52 on Cot 320 with double coating, slightly less on Stonhenge because it has to be cleared longer.


    Sandy

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    4,813
    Images
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Davenport
    Sandy,

    Yes, I know that article and have read about your modified process. Regarding light integrators, can they be retrofitted to an existing light box?

    Alan
    Sure. You just plug the power cord of the UV light (or any light for that matter) into the integrator, and the cord of the integrator goes into your power source. You then place the light sensor at some point where it will always receive the same light from the light source, and the other end goes into the integrator.

    Integrators give read-out in units, and most have a mechanism that allows you to set the duration of one unit to whatever value you want in time. I have my light integrator calibrated so that one second of time is approximately one unit.

    Most intregrators allow you to use the unit as both integrator and as a simple electronic timer, usually with readings to 0.1 second.

    For best accuracy it is imporant to use a probe with sensitivity that corresponds tio the light source. For a BL tube this should be rougly 350 - 420 nanometers.

    Sandy

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Portland - Oregon
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    91
    Images
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    BTW, do you have a good fan in the UV bank? If not, you really need one because as the bulbs heat up they put out less radiation, so without something to cool the tubes it will be very difficult to get any consistency in your exposures.
    I have read about the necessity of having a fan, but I am a little confused. Is the fan for cooling the only tubes or is it for the ballasts also?

    Alan

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    4,813
    Images
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Davenport
    I have read about the necessity of having a fan, but I am a little confused. Is the fan for cooling the only tubes or is it for the ballasts also?

    Alan
    In my unit the fan cools only the tubes.

    Sandy

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    Stonhenge used to clear well for me but the latest batch has proven very hard to clear. Sandy
    This is not good news. Sandy, when and from where did you buy this batch of Stonhenge? I have just run out of a supply I got about six months ago from Kinsella that had no problems and was going to re-order this week. Maybe I should order only a couple of sheets and try it out before committing to a larger order?

    ...lyle

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    4,813
    Images
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by lallan
    This is not good news. Sandy, when and from where did you buy this batch of Stonhenge? I have just run out of a supply I got about six months ago from Kinsella that had no problems and was going to re-order this week. Maybe I should order only a couple of sheets and try it out before committing to a larger order?

    ...lyle
    I ordered 100 sheets of Stonhenge last November or December from Daniel Smith. Unfortunately I did not get around to really using it until a month or so ago.

    The stain is deceptive. It is very hard to see it when the print is in the water, but when it dries there is a very slight stain, even with extensive clearing. Of course, there is always the chance that the stain is fogging and not iron stain, but I think not because I don't get any fog at all with COT 320.

    Perhaps an acid pre-soak would help, but it would have to be very brief because any prologed soaking breaks down the paper sizing. If this happens you need a lot more sensitizerr to coat the paper, and the look is more grainy.

    BTW, if you single coat there is very little if any stain. I just like to double coat for the bump in Dmax, but maybe this is just something that should not be done with Stonehenge. Just for the record, I get the same level of stain when double coating with Crane's Kid Finish. But when I double coat COT 320 there is a significant bump in Dmax, and no stain.


    Sandy
    Last edited by sanking; 09-06-2005 at 10:23 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    25
    Just to follow up on the Stonehenge clearing question. I called Kinsella papers and they pulled aside a package of Stonehenge for me and set me a sample from that package. I tested last night and had no problems with the clearing from this batch so they are sending the rest along today.
    ...lyle

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin