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Thread: Ya, It works!!

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    Ya, It works!!

    Ya, It works!!
    I have just finished testing the wiring job on my UV light box before going any further to make sure everything is ok. I used Tom’s instructions at:
    http://www.ferguson-photo-design.com...nstruct12.html

    As soon as the remainder of the box is completed I will be ordering Kallitype chemicals from B&S per Sandy’s recommendations. I have tried to read everything I could find about Alternative processes to guide me, this forum being my greatest resource. I believe the Kallitype process will be a good start for me. I have seen some very fine Platinum work on the Internet and even own some from Christian Nze. I also have Dick Arentz’s 1st edition of “Platinum and Palladium Printing”.

    Right now I am contact printing 5x7 and 8x10 negatives using Azo in Amidol and hope to create some Platinum work with many of these same negatives.

    I do have a question with all of this, though. Will the 15Watt BL bulbs I am using produce enough UV to make for reasonable exposure times? The 4-bulb electronic ballasts will allow for up to 32Watt bulbs. Should I use these instead? Did I mention that the inside of the box is 19”x 24” and has 16 bulbs? Will this be large enough to accommodate anything larger than 11”x 14”?

    Thank you for everyone’s many fine contributions to this forum.

    Alan B. Davenport

  2. #2
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Davenport
    Ya, It works!!

    this forum being my greatest resource.


    Alan B. Davenport
    Alan,

    Have you subscribed to the alternative process mail list? The archives are an excellent source of information about alternative processes. IMO, the knowledge base and expertise of the members is much more extensive than this forum provides, although the mail exchanges can be quite testy at times and not very inviting to the novice.

    Good luck,

    Don Bryant

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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    Alan,

    Have you subscribed to the alternative process mail list?

    Don Bryant
    Thanks Dan, I have only been lurking up to now. I'll have to subscribe.

    Alan

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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    Alan,

    Have you subscribed to the alternative process mail list? The archives are an excellent source of information about alternative processes. IMO, the knowledge base and expertise of the members is much more extensive than this forum provides, although the mail exchanges can be quite testy at times and not very inviting to the novice.

    Good luck,

    Don Bryant
    I agree with Don about the experiece base on the alt-photo-process list. Just learn to duck your head from time to time because, unlike this forum where everybody gets along some of the time, you may see some real spear throwing over there.

    As for kallitype, I am there as well and here and will try to answer any questions you may have. You probably know about my article on kallityp at www.unblinkingeye.com on kallitype? I have recently modifed the development instructions to shorten processing time with no loss of quality and the revised version of the article will appear on another site in a few days. I will post the link when the article is up.

    Meanwhile, an important thing to remember is that the ferric oxalate version of kallitype has paper requirments that are virtually identical to Pt./Pd., so for best results plan to start with one of the highly recommended Pt./Pd. papers so that you don't have to fight the problem of stain, which can be very difficult to clear with some papers. The very best paper for clearing in kallitype in my experience is Cot 320. Cote 320 is a bit on the pricey side but if ever there was a time to not skimp on your materials it is when you start out trying to learn one of these hand-coated processes. Just bite the bullet, buy a good quality paper that is known to give good Dmax and clear well, and work with small negatives for a while as you are learning. That way if you have problems you will at least know to look beyond the paper for the solution.

    Papers that are not designed for Pt./Pd. may give inconsistent results. Stonhenge used to clear well for me but the latest batch has proven very hard to clear. And unlike Pt./Pd., where the clearing agent will not reduce density, a paper that has to be cleared for a very long time with kallitype will lose Dmax because the acid clearing bath will bleach the silver if clearing continues for too long a time. I also used to get great results with Lenox and Strathmore 500 papers, but the latest batches of these papers I used did not give good results.

    Sandy
    Last edited by sanking; 09-05-2005 at 09:10 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #5
    Jon King's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Davenport
    Ya, It works!!
    I have just finished testing the wiring job on my UV light box before going any further to make sure everything is ok. I used Tom’s instructions at:
    http://www.ferguson-photo-design.com...nstruct12.html

    I do have a question with all of this, though. Will the 15Watt BL bulbs I am using produce enough UV to make for reasonable exposure times? The 4-bulb electronic ballasts will allow for up to 32Watt bulbs. Should I use these instead? Did I mention that the inside of the box is 19”x 24” and has 16 bulbs? Will this be large enough to accommodate anything larger than 11”x 14”?
    I've only used mine (8x20W bulbs) for cyanotype, so I can't answer the question about times, athough I'd guess you have plenty of UV as it is. Higher power fluorescent bulbs are longer, so they will not fit in your fixture. I'd give it a try as is and don't change things unless you have problems with it.
    Jonathan
    -----------------------------------------------

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Davenport
    Y

    I do have a question with all of this, though. Will the 15Watt BL bulbs I am using produce enough UV to make for reasonable exposure times? The 4-bulb electronic ballasts will allow for up to 32Watt bulbs. Should I use these instead? Did I mention that the inside of the box is 19”x 24” and has 16 bulbs? Will this be large enough to accommodate anything larger than 11”x 14”?

    Thank you for everyone’s many fine contributions to this forum.

    Alan B. Davenport
    The 15 watt BL bulbs should give reasonable exposure times. Just try and see. The 32 watts bulbs put out twice as much radiation and should approximately halve exposure times, so if time is a significant factor for you just change out the bulbs. My exposure times wtih BLB tubes at 4" is on the order of four minutes for kallitype printing, and about six minutes for palladium.

    BTW, your printing times will probably lengthen as the bulbs age. I notice that my printing times with my BLB bank are now about 50% longer than they are with my NuArc 26-IK. When the BLB tubes were new they printed slightly faster than the NuArc 26-IK.

    BTW, do you have a good fan in the UV bank? If not, you really need one because as the bulbs heat up they put out less radiation, so without something to cool the tubes it will be very difficult to get any consistency in your exposures. Unless you use a light integrator of course, which is of course highly recommended. But the fan will help matters a lot.

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    scootermm's Avatar
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    speaking of light integrators sandy
    whats a good one to get and what do they usually run, price wise?

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    Quote Originally Posted by scootermm
    speaking of light integrators sandy
    whats a good one to get and what do they usually run, price wise?
    Olix by Olec, and you want to buy them used on ebay in the grahic arts printing section. I have purchased them for as little as $50 with probe, though $75- 100 without probe is more common. There are several other brand names that appear similar or Olec so I assume that Olec is the distributor, not manufacturer.

    They seem to appear on ebay only from time to time so you might have to wait to purchase a used one. I just had a look at ebay just now and did not see anything available, but I know someone who purchased two units just a few weeks back.

    Sandy

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    James Bleifus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    Just bite the bullet, buy a good quality paper that is known to give good Dmax and clear well,
    Sandy
    Sandy,

    What sort of DMAX are you seeing in your Kallitypes?

    Cheers, James

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    You probably know about my article on kallityp at www.unblinkingeye.com on kallitype? I have recently modifed the development instructions to shorten processing time...Sandy
    Sandy,

    Yes, I know that article and have read about your modified process. Regarding light integrators, can they be retrofitted to an existing light box?

    Alan

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