Quote Originally Posted by nze

I think it also depend on the paper weight. Print on thin paper are often sharper and denser than on heavy one. Crane's kid finish give excellent result in sharpness and density partly due t his low weight.
I also get excellent result with some extra thin Gampi japanese paper .
yes, paper weight matters
I've done decent cyanotype prints on very cheap commercial Fabriano papers (<90 gsm). But when the paper is too thin there's always the risk to break it while soaked in water. Perhaps one may try sizing these too...

By the way I will be pleased to know which magnani paper you use???
I don't use Magnani regularly, just tried it once - it was the one for "incisioni"...
has a very nice texture, worked well for cyanotype and produced enough density as other papers compatible with cyanotype chemistry. You may like it or not like it if you're looking for some particular tone, density, etc. Personally my favourite choice will be Schoellershammer No. 6 G for regular Cyanotypes with high density and contrasty prints. On the other hand this Shoellershammer doesn't react well with bleaching agents (chlorine, sodium carbonate...). The image washes out without revealing any pleasent blue/yellow split tone or blue/green tone with heavily overexposed prints. Also toning with coffee or tea doesn't work well. I've still to try with tannic acid but I'm don't think it will be good. Other papers react much better when you decided to mess again with a printed cyanotype. However I still have to select a paper for these purposes; low weight Fabriano 5 seems to work, but I want to try the 300gsm version.

If you can buy few sheets of Magnani it is well worth the try - and probably the paper is good also for many other printing processes, so it won't be wasted if you don't like it with cyanotypes. If you have access only to 100 sh packs I think you could save that money for another paper you already know well and can buy confidently in large stock.