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  1. #21
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel
    I notice the papers mentioned probably do not give any gloss to the albumen prints. Since typically 19th and early 20th century albumens were glossy, I prefer that look.

    In order to get a decent gloss I went to Strathmore 500, plate finish, single ply. A single application of albumen works well on this paper for me. Also by using a gold/thiocyanatge toner I can get the typical purplish color when I want it.
    Jim,

    Where are you purchasing your Strathmore 500?

    Thanks,
    Don Bryant

  2. #22
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Best price I've found is at Jerry's Artarama online for more than 25 sheets of Strathmore 500 Plate 1-ply. 2-ply I've found locally in various places in New York.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  3. #23

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    "Does anyone have a favorite recipe for salted paper and albumen printing? I'm looking for ones from actual personal experience, not the ones commonly listed online or in Reilly or other books unless they have worked well for you."

    Well, I have tried once Salt printing by development as described by Alan Greene in his book Primitive Photography/ A Guide to Making Cameras, Lenses, and Calotypes.
    I'll be honest, I feel I got very good results on my first try. Check my one print on my APUG gallery.
    Last week I was thinking of getting more chemicals for a second try. I loved the tonality I got.

  4. #24
    cjarvis's Avatar
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    The one I've published in different places is from my personal experience.

    Sizing/salting solution

    * 12 eggs or enough for 500ml of egg whites
    * 15-g ammonium chloride or table salt
    * 15-ml distilled water
    * 2-ml 28% acetic acid
    * 15-g sodium citrate (optional preservative)
    * 2 drops Kodak PhotoFlo (optional)

    Sensitizer

    * 37.5-g silver nitrate
    * 250-ml distilled water
    * 2 drops 6.5-7% potassium dichromate (optional contrast control)

    I've used Lenox 100, Strathmore 500 and Cranes Kid Finish. Obviously the heavier the stock, the less curling you'll encounter when floating.YMMV.

  5. #25
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I get more curling with Strathmore 500 2-ply than 1-ply. It may be a humidity issue.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  6. #26
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    I get the Strathmore 500 single ply from Jerry's Artarama.

    I notice someone had problem with curling - I also had this with the 2 ply, bu tnot so much with the single.

    Jim
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  7. #27

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    Pardon the resurrection of an old thread.

    I'm about to start my first attempt at making albumen paper, and will probably use a recipe similar to that posted by cjarvis above...

    * 12 eggs or enough for 500ml of egg whites
    * 15-g ammonium chloride or table salt
    * 15-ml distilled water
    * 2-ml 28% acetic acid
    * 15-g sodium citrate (optional preservative)
    * 2 drops Kodak PhotoFlo (optional)

    The one thing I don't have, however, is acetic acid. In an oldish book (1950s Dictionary Of Photography), there is a simpler recipe which uses rectified spirit instead of acetic acid. My understanding is that either alchohol or acid can serve to denature the albumen. Is that right? Can I replace the acetic acid with a suitable proportion of alchohol? I already have some rectified spirit - it's actually very strong Polish booze which is used for mixing up drinks. It is 95% alchohol, 5% distilled water (190 proof). From what I can find, rectified spirit is about 90% alchohol.

    On a separate note, what is the difference between using Sodium Chloride and Ammonium Chloride? (I have both.) What does the PhotoFlo do? (That's wetting agent, yes?) And, what is the effect of using Potassium Dichromate for contrast 'control'? Control in what way? I'd like the paper to be contrasty - hoping to get something that is usable with a negative that is fairly normally exposed and developed (I expect to have to boost negative contrast in any case, but if I can keep the neg contrast within bounds that make them scannable on an Epson V700 flatbed, that would be good.)

  8. #28
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    If you haven't read http://albumen.conservation-us.org/l...lly/index.html then this is a pretty thorough book. This is also another good one, even if I find his writing a bit long-winded and prone to blah-blah: http://www.christopherjames-studio.c...ooksample.html

    Sodium and Ammonium chloride gives different tones to the print.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  9. #29
    juan's Avatar
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    I've used Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, properly diluted, as well as glacial acetic acid with good results in albumen. Never added Photoflo.
    Ammonium chloride gives me a redder tone, while sodium is more black.
    juan

  10. #30

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    Thanks for the links - still reading.

    I'll have a closer look at the stop bath. Do you mean make it up to the normal dilution, and then use the same amount as given for glacial acetic acid?

    I'm hoping to get a browny colour to the final prints - would a 50/50 mix of the two chlorides be worthwhile? I only have selenium toner, incidentally (Kodak rapid).

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