i would love to learn this sort of thing.
i have coated my own dry plates and paper using liquid light
since about 1986/7 and if there is a product out there that
is faster than asa .5 or 2 that's great!
wish i could make it to workshops &C, but family obligations &C make it hard for me to do that sort of thing...
congratulations by the way!!
Thanks for sharing your achievement with us - and Good For You! sounds like a great opportunity for a workshop.
Everything is analog - even digital :D
I'm going to work on what you suggest as well, but it all takes time. Just getting the workshop together is taking a major portion of my time.
I've already been asked off-line, about doing the same thing in color. I believe I mentioned this in another thread as well. Yes, that is also doable, but probably only with a dye bleach material for technical and cost reasons. Doing conventional chromogenic color requires some pretty expensive chemistry and equipment.
Thanks to all for your thoughtful answers.
Yes. I'd be interested in both a workshop and the recipes.
I managed to make an emulsion from scratch about a dozen years ago. It worked but was prone to fog. I'd like to know how to make one that wasn't and also one I could coat on glass.
Is your emulsion suitable for making glass dryplates as well as prints? An handmade ISO 100 plate would be a dream come true.
Originally Posted by smieglitz
Joe, the AgBr/I with a speed of 12 - 25 is stable and takes about 1/2 hour to make. It repeats over and over and over, and can be kept for months in the fridge. OTOH, I have only made the 100 speed one time. Got to repeat it like any good scientist.
It was foggy, so I have to fix that, and I have no idea how well it will repeat. It takes about 2 hours to make and it requires an extensive 3 day or more workup. I have to simplify that before it is ready for the big-time. It is not a nice prep. I got it from a textbook from the 40s and 'fixed it up' a little. Even so, it is not user friendly, but then you should see some of the formulas from that era. Boiled emulsions, heated to 95 deg F for over 8 hours? You gotta be kidding me.
These emulsions can be coated on any suitable prepared surface including glass, estar, acetate and paper. (Or your front door?)
I was going to repeat it today, but was diverted for some mundane tasks related to daily life. I'll keep you posted.
All of the formulas will be released to the workshop attendees. After that, who knows. The publication of a book seems attractive. Samizdat!
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I think that this is great and that it should be pursued. That said, I don't feel that I am in a place with my photography where I can put forth the effort this would require right now. I suspect I may want to do this in the future and I am extremely grateful that someone is out there working on this kind of thing and interested in passing the knowlege along.
Even learning how to make an emulsion with an ASA of 12 would be great.
A number of "samizdat" booklets sell on eBay in PDF form; the most notable of these is the Lens Collector's Vade Mecum.
As I live on the bottom of the planet, a book or whatever would be pretty much what I would be able to acquire.
I would be very interested in coating various papers with real workable emulsion. Liquid light is quite good but it's stability on some paper surfaces I tried, seemed to be dependent on my ability to get a reasonable amount of emulsion evenly coated. It's also very, very expensive, if one starts to coat large areas, or for multiple prints.
I think your windscreen wiper type applicator you mentioned in another post, may be the answer.
I will follow this with great interest.
Originally Posted by Mick Fagan
At present, I can get a good print with 250 mg of silver / ft sq. This is 5 mils thickness of the emulsion diluted 1:1 with gelatin and water for 12 ml of emulsion / ft sq. I'm working on reducing the level.
The basic formula gives a contrast grade of 1.0 in this mode. Adding addenda to increase contrast gives me grades 2 and 3 respectively with Ilford MG IV as my check.
It has been a rather big expense for me as a retired person, but I don't intend to profit by it. I only wish to recoupe my costs for the coating blades and some of the experiments.
As I said in a previous post, I would rather die surrounded by 100 friends than 100 $100 bills. You get my point I hope.
Anyhow, free publication is my goal as well as dissemination of the high quality coating methods that I use to get good images at 8x10 and hopefully higher. My supplier has informed me that the 11x14 blades will be available next week as well as the modified 8x10 with better spread capability.
The repeat ISO 100 emulsion went well this afternoon, but coating was a problem due to pH. That ammonia digest is a pain in the tush!
So, two steps forward and a step backwards.
I continue my work. Thanks again to you all for your e-mails, your private messages and other contacts. I truly welcome them all. Please do keep in touch. Objective input is helping me a lot. without a 'raison d'etre' I might have given up. It is not easy working in a vacuum.
Living in Germany, I certainly support Chris and Mick in their longing for a book. Self-coating emulsions seems to me a fascinating idea for hundred and one reasons: independence, able to create one's own looks and character, make one's own formats, use it as a starting point for one's own ideas and motives, going back to the sources, away from the "predigested world" to quote Chris.
I happen to think that consumerism and consumerist attitude really is a scourge of photography. PE, if you succeed in getting results in film speed - or any worthwhile and communicable results - (and I was reading those remarks about autochromes!!), I would think of this as a major achievement in creative photography, pushing open a new door.