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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by cullah
    I use 25ml/L of a product named "Lime Away". It clears, in my experience, much better than citric acid and hypo clearing agent. Three baths of 4-5 min. interspaced with water washes.
    I haven't been able to get Lime Away in my area. Thank you too for the recommendation. Appreciate it!

  2. #32
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    I'm slightly baffled by the whole Pt/Pd process because I keep hearing people talking about using some certain chemicals, but when I order a Pt/Pd kit from, for example, Bostick & Sullivan, it contains a very different list of chemicals. What's with that? I know I'm a relative newbie to the process, and I suppose that the learning curve may be easier with the B&S kit, but I'm still confused. If I want to do this right, what should I be getting instead of the kit?

  3. #33
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    50ml Palladium #3 (sodium chloropalladate)
    50ml Ferric oxalate #1
    20ml sodium chloroplatinite (Na2 from B&S)
    droppers for the bottles
    2 liter potassium oxalate developer
    1000g citric acid
    250g oxalic acid
    Kodak hypoclear
    Paper: either COT 320, arches platine or Fabriano Extra White hot press for starters
    Richeson 9010 3" wash brush
    4 20ml glass bottles with droppers for diluting the Na2

    That would be my recommended bare minimum starting kit.

    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera
    I'm slightly baffled by the whole Pt/Pd process because I keep hearing people talking about using some certain chemicals, but when I order a Pt/Pd kit from, for example, Bostick & Sullivan, it contains a very different list of chemicals. What's with that? I know I'm a relative newbie to the process, and I suppose that the learning curve may be easier with the B&S kit, but I'm still confused. If I want to do this right, what should I be getting instead of the kit?

  4. #34
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    Clay- thanks for the list. What do some of these things substitute for from the B&S kit? This is all very confusing. I've been getting functional results from the B&S kit, but I know much better can be had, and I'd like to get there. Their kit is the FeOx 1, FeOx 2, Pd 3, EDTA clearing bath and Citric acid developer.

    I already have the COT 320, the dropper bottle lids, the Richeson 9010 brushes. I'm trying to find some of these chemicals on the B&S website but I can't seem to find some of them.

    Quote Originally Posted by clay
    50ml Palladium #3 (sodium chloropalladate)
    50ml Ferric oxalate #1
    20ml sodium chloroplatinite (Na2 from B&S)
    droppers for the bottles
    2 liter potassium oxalate developer
    1000g citric acid
    250g oxalic acid
    Kodak hypoclear
    Paper: either COT 320, arches platine or Fabriano Extra White hot press for starters
    Richeson 9010 3" wash brush
    4 20ml glass bottles with droppers for diluting the Na2

    That would be my recommended bare minimum starting kit.

  5. #35
    Kerik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera
    Clay- thanks for the list. What do some of these things substitute for from the B&S kit? This is all very confusing. I've been getting functional results from the B&S kit, but I know much better can be had, and I'd like to get there. Their kit is the FeOx 1, FeOx 2, Pd 3, EDTA clearing bath and Citric acid developer.
    First, take the FeOx 2, go to the nearest window and throw it as far as you can. You should really investigate the use of Na2 in your sensitizer for contrast control, or adding dichromate to your developer. It would take too long to write out all of this in detail here. You may want to pick up the latest edition of Dick Arentz' book on pt/pd printing. Don't let all the sensitometry stuff intimidate you - just skip it for now (or forever), if you already have decent negs. EDTA by itself is not a great clearing agent. Citric acid and Kodak HCA (or Heico permawash) will work much better.

    Hope that helps a bit...
    Kerik Kouklis
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    www.kerik.com
    2014 Workshop Schedule Online

  6. #36
    clay's Avatar
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    The FeOx 1 is ferric oxalate #1 - same stuff
    FeOx 2 - don't bother
    Pd 3 is Sodium palladium #3 - same stuff
    EDTA - use with HCA
    Probably it is not citric acid developer, but ammonium citrate developer
    So buy some potassium oxalate developer and Na2 and you're ready to go

    Bostick and Sullivan have everything but the Kodak HCA on their website



    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera
    Clay- thanks for the list. What do some of these things substitute for from the B&S kit? This is all very confusing. I've been getting functional results from the B&S kit, but I know much better can be had, and I'd like to get there. Their kit is the FeOx 1, FeOx 2, Pd 3, EDTA clearing bath and Citric acid developer.

    I already have the COT 320, the dropper bottle lids, the Richeson 9010 brushes. I'm trying to find some of these chemicals on the B&S website but I can't seem to find some of them.

  7. #37

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    Noticed that some Practitioners prefer postassium oxalate developer over ammonium citrate developer, what is the main difference between the two? Also, have any of you ever tried using the LiPd, for Ziatypes, in place of Palladium #3? Just curious, since I tend to have the LiPd on hand.

    TIA, Mike

    Quote Originally Posted by clay
    The FeOx 1 is ferric oxalate #1 - same stuff
    FeOx 2 - don't bother
    Pd 3 is Sodium palladium #3 - same stuff
    EDTA - use with HCA
    Probably it is not citric acid developer, but ammonium citrate developer
    So buy some potassium oxalate developer and Na2 and you're ready to go

    Bostick and Sullivan have everything but the Kodak HCA on their website
    Mike C

    Rambles

  8. #38
    clay's Avatar
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    Potassium oxalate is a warmer toned, lower contrast and IMO, smoother developer than ammonium citrate.

    I use LiPd all the time for my develop-out palladium. It has a subtly different tone than the regular stuff, but behaves just the same, with the exception that it does not bronze as easily.

    Quote Originally Posted by photomc
    Noticed that some Practitioners prefer postassium oxalate developer over ammonium citrate developer, what is the main difference between the two? Also, have any of you ever tried using the LiPd, for Ziatypes, in place of Palladium #3? Just curious, since I tend to have the LiPd on hand.

    TIA, Mike

  9. #39

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    Thank You, Clay.
    Mike C

    Rambles

  10. #40

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    Well, I actually prefer the more neutral tones of sodium citrate. Have not used ammonium citrate in years and don't remember how it works.

    Sandy


    Quote Originally Posted by photomc
    Noticed that some Practitioners prefer postassium oxalate developer over ammonium citrate developer, what is the main difference between the two? Also, have any of you ever tried using the LiPd, for Ziatypes, in place of Palladium #3? Just curious, since I tend to have the LiPd on hand.

    TIA, Mike

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