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  1. #41
    scootermm's Avatar
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    I wanna second clays comment (although coming from a MORONIC newbie)
    I started with Ammonium Citrate as my palladium/platinum developer and recently moved to pot oxalate....
    hands down love it, in comparison. warm and creamy. strange descriptive but I do love it.

  2. #42

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    Thanks Sandy and Matt, guess I will be giving the DOP Pd process a try in the future. Already have some Ammonium Citrate (think that is what B&S is shipping with their Pd kits these days) and will get some postassium oxalate to compare the two. Seems like the nice things about these process is you can change one thing to get a different look if you want. That and it comes down to what you have on hand
    Mike C

    Rambles

  3. #43
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    How much Sodium Citrate should I get if I want to do up to 11x14" prints?

  4. #44

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    You would need about a liter of working solution, plus another liter for replenishment as you use up the working. A working solution needs to be about a 25% solution, so that is 250g of sodium citrate per liter.

    BTW, some texts say that the dichromate control method only works with potassium oxalate, but I have found that it works just as well with sodium citrate.

    Sodium citrate is less toxic than potassium oxalate, and also quite a bit less expensive ($7.80 versus $18.00 Artcraft), though you can reduce cost a lot by buying your chemicals in buyng in bulk. For example, at www.thechemistrystore.com the price of sodium citrate is less than $4.00 a pound.

    Sandy



    Quote Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera
    How much Sodium Citrate should I get if I want to do up to 11x14" prints?

  5. #45

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    I'd like to revive this thread for a moment.

    I bought some pH 1-11 paper strips to test the solutions. The phamacist said it isn't very accurate. But never mind, I'll try! Here's what I found out:-

    Potassium Oxalate pH7
    Citric acid 3
    EDTA/Sulfite 9
    Sulfite 7 1/2
    Tape water 6
    Distilled water(used to mix Pot.Oxalate) 6

    I'm surprised to find the developer in alkalinity. I'm thinking perhaps it isn't the water rinse that retards the clearing process but the Pot. Oxalate. Any thoughts?

    Thanks again.

  6. #46

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    One more thing - EDTA stands for Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid. My test shows it's extremely alkaline (pH10). But it says ACID!

  7. #47
    Kerik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eggshell
    I'm surprised to find the developer in alkalinity. I'm thinking perhaps it isn't the water rinse that retards the clearing process but the Pot. Oxalate. Any thoughts?

    Thanks again.
    I keep my P.O. developer around pH of 6 by adding small amounts of oxalic acid.
    Kerik Kouklis
    Platinum/Gum/Collodion
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    2014 Workshop Schedule Online

  8. #48

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    Thanks Kerik. Guess I'll do the same.

  9. #49

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    I also do this with potassium oxalate developer. If you are using sodium citrate just add small amounts of citric acid for the same effect.

    Sandy


    Quote Originally Posted by Kerik
    I keep my P.O. developer around pH of 6 by adding small amounts of oxalic acid.

  10. #50
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    Hi,

    Looks like I need to buy a pH meter for this use. I was wondering how accurate does it need to be? Could I use for checking aquarium/swimming pool?

    Thanks for your input.

    Warmly,
    Tsuyoshi
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