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  1. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by eggshell
    I've just started using BFK and I do not have a clearing problem. I treat the paper with 1.5% OA for 5 min. Develop in PO for 5 min. Soak in citric acid for 5 min, and 3 baths of Sodium Sulfite/Edta (a little stronger than needed for Platinotype paper) for 5 min. each bath. I'm using BFK Rives Velin 200 gms. Perhaps you are using heavier BFK paper or are double coating it. I see no difference in single or double coats, so I'm coating only once. I also let the coat rest for a min. or so before force drying with mild hairdryer setting. Hope this helps!
    And yes...no water rinse after developing and in-between clearing baths as what Clay taught me.

  2. #62
    colrehogan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eggshell
    One more thing - EDTA stands for Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid. My test shows it's extremely alkaline (pH10). But it says ACID!
    Acetic acid is a weak acid. Amines are a stronger base (hence the pH being basic). However, as for the word Acid being in the name, the structure of the compound is described in the name, and there are four acetic acid groups in the compound, hence tetraacetic acid.
    Diane

    Halak 41

  3. #63
    Joe Lipka's Avatar
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    What is normally used as the chelating agent is the EDTA sodium salt. Everyone gets so tired of saying ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, they forget about the sodium salt part.
    A New Project! Transformations 02/02/2014

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    250+ posts and still blogging! "Postcards from the Creative Journey"

    http://blog.joelipkaphoto.com/

  4. #64
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    There are also two types of EDTA - tetrasodium and disodium. The disodium is acidic and can be used to clear prints on its own. The tetrasodium is basic, and basically doesn't work well on its own. It needs to be combined with hypoclear to be effective, in my experience.
    I just want to feel nostalgic like I used to.


    http://www.clayharmon.net - turnip extraordinaire

  5. #65
    billschwab's Avatar
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    Thanks to all. I have adopted Clay's approach and it is working perfectly for me now. All clear ahead. I do love this paper. Amazing results with only one coat. I'll be retiring that Platinotype now as there is really no comparison. Looks good on its own, but side by side the BFK makes it look lifeless. I know Kerik... "I told you so." Live and learn.

    UPS just dropped off my order of COT as I was typing this. This is the last paper I will be testing...

    Thanks again,

    Bill

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by billschwab
    UPS just dropped off my order of COT as I was typing this. This is the last paper I will be testing...
    Wow... nice stuff. Looks to me to have a slightly warmer feel than the Rives as well as a smoother finish, but the image quality is equally as rich. I would say they are the winners hands down out of all I have tested.

    Thanks again for the help.

    B.

  7. #67
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    Bill- welcome to the world of COT320. Amazing that such a beautiful paper has such a lousy name. It also gives you about a half- to a full grade extra contrast, because of the whiteness of the base.

  8. #68

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    Hi,
    I use 35ml of Lime Away per Litre of water. Three baths at 6 min. each with a water bath in between. Works better than anything else I've tried

  9. #69

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    hi all,

    i've just tried the bfk rives 250g (acidified 5% 5mn)

    i can't clear the paper, (one time only with success and it was bleached)
    i've tried edta, oxalic acid, sodium sulfite, sodium metabisulfite (perhaps slighty better but really not enough) with warm distilled water
    potassium oxalate or sodium citrate as developer
    mix platinum/palladium or pur palladium

    i follow all the advices (not the lime away) of this trade a and i can't find a solution for this beautiful paper.

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