Helen: Thanks for the Realist tutorial. I'm only vaguely familiar with the various 3D cameras. I've made a pinky promise with myself that playing with stereo won't turn into an excuse for more camera collecting!
I'll have to chew on the optics for a bit, and maybe find a diagram of the innards of a Realist. I can visualize some kind of masking system that allows the images to record to the right and left, but I'm not putting together "the optical axes of the lenses are parallel" with "the fields of view of the two lenses are convergent", unless you mean after the fact, when the images are being viewed.
Ron: You'll just have to have all the APUG'ers take your workshops. Of course, then you'd be mobbed by fans everywhere you went!
"I have been thinking that it might be worthwhile to re-visit the experience of making stereo pairs…. but, since I am unable to afford a “real” stereo setup, I wonder if anyone can point me in the direction of making stereo pairs with my (monorail) Linhof bi-Kardan and a 240mm lens (capable of covering my 8x10 with some room for shifts). "
I never thought of doing stereo in 8x10 but in 5x7 it's really very easy, just use two 127/4.7 Ektar lenses in Supermatic # 2 shutters.
1) the Ektars are really nice lenses and usually cheap
2) the center-to-center spacing is perfect
3) it's really very easy to synch the Supermatic shutters together
4) "A stereo camera like the Stereo Realist has the centres of the film frames slightly further apart than the separation of the optical axes of the lenses (deviation)." Bingo.
All it needs is a large enough lens board and a silk/elastic divider. It should work out well with 5x8 and both lenses on 1 board should allow most front movements except swing. The 101/4.5 in Supermatic #1 for 4x5 or 152/4.5 in Supermatic #3 for 8x10 might work also. The #32 Kodak Anastigmat 162/4.5 will cover 5x8, I don't know if the 152/4.5 Ektar does. It's the Supermatic shutters that let this work easily.
You asked. :o