Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,533   Posts: 1,572,666   Online: 917
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Göteborg, Sweden
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    558
    Images
    4

    UV Light box, again...

    Hi Everyone!

    I have done some research on building a UV box, and things are a little more complicated here in Sweden, possibly a bit more expensive also...

    I have come up with some answers, and would like some more!

    I have found the 40W Philips Actinic 05 tube, it sells at about 17 USD each incl. tax (SEK 135). It measures 26 mm diameter and 590 mm long. For each tube I will need a holder that costs about 25 USD (200 SEK) and a ballast (reaktor in swedish) that costs about 14 USD (100 SEK).

    The outer dimensions of the holder including the tube 39 mm wide, 612 mm long and 78 mm high. If I put the holders side to side I will get a space between each tube of approx 15 mm, which seems good according to this site.

    If I put 6 of these tubes side to side I'll get about 220 by 550 mm of light. It juuuust covers an 8 by 10 print. The box will cost close to 450 USD (3500 SEK).

    I could get 7 tubes, equalling about 260 mm width, but that would add 80 USD (SEK 500) to the price.

    What would you do? The frame I'm waiting for is 9 by 11 inches (Dan Pelland Cherry) so I don't think I'm going to print bigger than that any time soon.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Tijeras, NM
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,246
    Seems like you are doing it the hard way.. why not price complete units and then take them apart for the things you need?

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    186
    I just completed my source and I'm still learning a lot about alternative printing.

    From my perspective, 15mm between bulbs sounds kind of high. How far away from the bulbs do you plan to position the photosensitive surface? Besides better eveness, an advantage of closer spacing is more light.

    At 590mm, you could expose for 11x14. Why not build wide enough for that format?

    I might add that $80 for another tube sounds expensive. I probably spent around $425 for my entire unit based on 20 watt, 24 inch tubes, and I have 15 tubes side-by-side. It's cheaper to purchase the parts separately and assemble them yourself. Separate ballasts, tubes, sockets, etc. My 20 watt ballasts were only $6, and I could have found them for less. My tubes were $12. It's cheaper yet to mail order them. I purchased mine from a local vendor. Etc. I know you're in a different country, perhaps that's the difference. It still seems high.
    Last edited by Neil Poulsen; 12-27-2005 at 03:40 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Göteborg, Sweden
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    558
    Images
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Poulsen
    I just completed my source and I'm still learning a lot about alternative printing.

    From my perspective, 15mm between bulbs sounds kind of high. How far away from the bulbs do you plan to position the photosensitive surface? Besides better eveness, an advantage of closer spacing is more light.
    15 mm is too much? How close are yours? What is limiting me is the width of the holder. Are there holders that are slimmer than 39 mm? I will have to test to get the right distance between tubes and frame, but I'm guessing 10-20 cm. Probably 15 cm.

    At 590mm, you could expose for 11x14. Why not build wide enough for that format?

    I might add that $80 for another tube sounds expensive. I probably spent around $425 for my entire unit based on 20 watt, 24 inch tubes, and I have 15 tubes side-by-side. It's cheaper to purchase the parts separately and assemble them yourself. Separate ballasts, tubes, sockets, etc. My 20 watt ballasts were only $6, and I could have found them for less. My tubes were $12. It's cheaper yet to mail order them. I purchased mine from a local vendor. Etc. I know you're in a different country, perhaps that's the difference. It still seems high.
    Are you in the US? Things are considerably cheaper there. Sweden is a country of 9 million. The number of buyers for these types of tubes etc are very limited. Maybe there are 2000 people in the country doing these things, tops. Also, we have high VAT, 25%.

    I have looked for a mail order company based in Sweden that sells these things, but not found any. UV lights are considered "for the pros" here, and noone seems to know how they work or what for. For instance, when I called Philips in Sweden, they knew about the tubes, but could not find HF/Electromagnetic ballasts for their own product. So they recommended that I use the LF/Magnetic ones.

    Of course, maybe I could butcher a few complete sets of "tube holders", or what it's called. Maybe I can find them very cheap at a large hardware store. Must check it out. I don't really know what I'm doing here, so that's why I opted for contacting the pro electronics companies. I was thinking I could get some help, but it seems I know more than them in this regard...

    Thanks for all your tips!

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Tijeras, NM
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,246
    I don't think you need a special ballast for the bulb. I realize the expense that you will find in europe and that was why I suggested the whole units, less opportunity to tack on a tax.
    You might want to get one of each that you will try to use and make sure everything works together before you buy 10 of everything.
    Another thing that you may want to consider is the spiral blb bulbs, You don't need a ballast, just regular old sockets (real cheap). Might be cheaper overall to import to europe. There are several posts on apug from people who have put these together.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Shooter
    Pinhole
    Posts
    64
    If you use the sodium vapor bulbs (Phillips makes these too) you'll only need one or two bulbs, with screw bases--which may be moguls or normal-sized (get ceramic) depending on the wattage used. Then you make some reflector surround and Bob's your uncle!

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Tijeras, NM
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,246
    Sodium vapor bulbs have zero uv output. Perhaps metal halide or mercury vapor? Sandy has an article about this somewhere, maybe unblinkingeye.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    4,813
    Images
    5
    Poptart,

    My understading is that sodium vapor bulbs produce a very low percentage of UV radiation per watt compared to mercury vapor and metal halide HID bulbs and/or UV tubes such as the AQUA, BL, BLB, SA, etc. Do you have information to the contrary? If so, please post the SPD (Spectral Power Distribution) charts for the sodium vapor bulbs at this site, or have someone who is using the sodium vapor bulbs for alt printing report their results here.


    Sandy



    Quote Originally Posted by Poptart
    If you use the sodium vapor bulbs (Phillips makes these too) you'll only need one or two bulbs, with screw bases--which may be moguls or normal-sized (get ceramic) depending on the wattage used. Then you make some reflector surround and Bob's your uncle!
    Last edited by sanking; 12-27-2005 at 10:50 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    6,242
    What is your voltage in Sweden? That may be complicating things for you. I know that part of Europe is 220 volt. Some may be DC as well. I do know that the ac supply in Europe is 50 hertz rather then 60 hz that we have here.

    Electronic ballasts will give you higher output.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    186
    I was following the guidelines suggested by Photographers' Formulary by spacing the sockets at 1 3/4" centers, which places the larger T12 20 watt bulbs about 1/4" or 5/16" apart. (About 6-8mm.) I was told that, based on testing by Dick Arentz, this provides a sufficiently even distribution of light when the paper is at least 2 3/4" from the edge of the lights.

    I haven't done my own testing, I just followed this as a guideline. One wouldn't want the bulbs much closer, or it would be impractical changing the bulbs, etc. Once they're that close, the real issue is the distance between the bulbs and the photosensitive surface.

    My ballasts are magnetic, and it takes 5-7 seconds for all the lights to come on. I'm thinking about placing a sheet of black plastic over the print frame, giving the bulbs a 10 second warm up, and pulling out the plastic when I begin timing the exposure. Cleaner start that way.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin