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plastic bash heat film
I can find "nature film" in the toy store. It is paper base using iron oxide (?). I can take a picture with it during bright sunlight using f1.4 / 4 hours then develop using hot water. But the res is very low.
30 years ago I got some "film" that looked like plastic film. I think I got it from Spriotone (sp). It took about only an hour and was develop in hot water. And was a lot shaper then "nature film".
Any body know what it was called and where I can find some more?
thanks
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I don't remember the name but I think I got mine from Dignan. Don't think it's manufactured any more. It used an organic azo compound which generated nitrogen gas when heated. This caused microscopic bubbles to form which changed the optical density of the film and created the image.
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This "nature film" sounds interesting. Where are you located that you can get this in a toy store?
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 Originally Posted by beningh
Any body know what it was called and where I can find some more?
thanks
In about 1970 I briefly experimented with Kalvar film, probably purchased from Spiratone. The results didn't meet my expectations. It was a very slow UV sensitive vesicular film that could be fixed in hot water. A google search for vesicular film will point to
THIS
and other information. Kalvar proved to have serious long term storage problems.
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Kalvar, that's the name. The Dignan Newsletter had an article on it and sold it in 100" rolls.
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Hi, I live on Kwajalein Atoll. But this paper comes drom the states. Its called NATURE PRINT PAPER. I got 12 sheets of 6"x9" paper for about $5 US.
Kids use it to make prints of plant leaves when left in the sun for about 2 minutes. Then diped into water for about 1 minute. Comes out a blue color. Made by
NATURE PRINT PAPER
PO BOX 314
MORAGA, CA. 94556
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Kids use it to make prints of plant leaves when left in the sun for about 2 minutes. Then diped into water for about 1 minute. Comes out a blue color.
Ohhhh ... sounds like cyanotype paper, blue and iron-based. Probably would make great contact prints, though it's not really suited for in-camera ...
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