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  1. #1

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    WHat's the final word on spiral, screw-in black light bulbs?

    Is this a viable option? How many would be required for an 11x14 frame?
    How should the bulbs be wired in a series?
    Where do I get these bulbs?

  2. #2
    Monophoto's Avatar
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    Bruce -

    Linas Kudzma reported that he uses spiral bulbs in his UV printer. I've seen his work - it's gorgeous - although I suspect that we should assign more credit to his vision and talent than to the effectiveness of the UV source.

    I just completed my UV source this week based on spiral bulbs. I have not tested it yet - the chemicals were shipped from Bostick & Sullivan on Tuesday. I used six bulbs on 6" centers in a box with interior dimensions of 12" x 18".

    These bulbs are rated 120v. Therefore, they must be wired in parallel - not in series!

    I bought my bulbs from Ray Lighting. They have a web site at http://abcbulbs.com/item.asp?id=SL20...D=123428&afid=

  3. #3

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    I recently built a box with spiral BLB. I placed them 6in OC also, am currently using 6, but only printing 8x10. I built the box much bigger so in the future I could make bigger prints and add more sockets with bulbs. My contact frame was about 3in from the bulbs, and I had no problems with light fall off.

    I ordered my bulbs from Bulbman (LINK). They are 27w bulbs for $12.50 each, only a dollar more than the 20w.

    I have been only doing some test prints for kallitypes to determine exposure times. The last test I did was for 2.5 minutes, and I believe I can still decrease the time.

    If you have any questions feel free to ask.

    Regards,
    Martin

  4. #4

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    That's what I hoped to hear. What kind of sockets did you use and did you install them so the end of the bulbs point down? Also, do you think they should have a cooling fan?
    I'm waiting for my Bostick and Sullivan ziatype kit to arrive, so this will give me something to do in the meantime.

  5. #5

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    I used those metal boxes (not sure what they're called), to place the wiring in, and on top of them I placed a porcelain (plastic works also, I had to use one because they only had five of the others) socket. You should be able to find the sockets at a DIY store for around $2 a piece, and about $0.75 for the metal wiring boxes.

    I did place the bulbs facing down, and have had no problems with that. I did not use a cooling fan, as I don't believe I needed it. The exposures were very short, and the bulbs only became warm. Of course, you could always add a cooling fan later if you decided to... My advice would be, buy the bulbs, put one in a lamp for a few minutes, and decide for yourself.

  6. #6
    DarkroomDan's Avatar
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    Fluorescent lamps require time to come to full output. For the sake of consistency, if you do not turn your light box on and leave it on, if you are going to be making more than one print, you may want to standardize your startup procedures so that you are always starting with lamps at about the same startup temp. The light output also varies over the life of the lamp but over the midlife period, which for fluorescents is quite long, the output is fairly consistent.

    Dan
    Daniel Williams
    Enumclaw WA USA

  7. #7

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    Here this may give you an idea of what it looks like:





    The piece of foam core is used to reflect light because I am not using the other half. I might also suggest if you choose to build a bigger box to expand in the future, do all the wiring for the sockets, then just add the bulbs you need for now, and use something to divide the box (like the foam core).

    As a side note. I'm not sure where you are from, but I found some useful things for alt printing at WalMart. Such as, a digital timer ($5), 100ml measuring glass ($2), and a digital themometor ($10). Take a look in the cooking isles.

    Regards,
    Martin

  8. #8
    juan's Avatar
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    I'm using a box of spiral BLBs very similar to Martins - same sockets, bulbs vertical. My bulbs are only about an inch and a half above the printer glass. I'm using 15-watt bulbs as I can get them locally. Exposures on negatives made for the last Grade 2 Azo run about 10-12 minutes, so I don't believe the unstable warmup period makes much practical difference. I'm able to get repeatable prints in VDB.
    juan

  9. #9

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    I hope those aren't digital photos Martin!

  10. #10
    Dave Miller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markbb
    I hope those aren't digital photos Martin!
    If you are looking at them on a digital monitor, then they are.
    Regards Dave.

    An English Eye


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