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  1. #1
    donbga's Avatar
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    Making Ferric Oxalate

    Does anyone make their Ferric Oxalate, either aqueous or dry?

    If so any hints about what to do or look out for?

    Thanks,

    Don Bryant

  2. #2
    nze
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    I did some liquid Ferric oxalate for my platinum, when I have no more dry one.

    Just have good filter and a dark place to let it pass. I once make dry onr but it really need a specific place, the iquid form is really easy to do .

    I use an aerometerto know the % of ferric oxalate in the filtred solution and to get a 20% solution.
    Chris Nze
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  3. #3

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    I have an article in the Recent Articles and Chem Recipes on how to make your own. Check it out.

    Steve
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  4. #4
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magic823
    I have an article in the Recent Articles and Chem Recipes on how to make your own. Check it out.

    Steve
    Interesting and informative article. Now to find the chemicals.

    Don Bryant

  5. #5
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    Don, I know Eric Nelson has one recipe on his website, another recipe is in Farber - let me know if you want a copy of it, both are liquid. I'm looking to explore kallitypes for gum over but will buy the dry stuff from B & S since the liquid has a use by date.

    J
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  6. #6
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_Brewer
    Don, I know Eric Nelson has one recipe on his website, another recipe is in Farber - let me know if you want a copy of it, both are liquid. I'm looking to explore kallitypes for gum over but will buy the dry stuff from B & S since the liquid has a use by date.

    J
    Thanks John,

    I have copies of both. I'm also wondering if the FO can be frozen as Sandy King inquired in another post.

    Also what % solution does one have when the FO is mixed in aqueois form? 27%?

    There is also an article on the B&S web site for making dry FO. Either method seems like a lot of work and brings up the question, "Is making FO cost effective vs. purchasing dry FO?"

    Art Craft has a bit better price on FO compared to B&S, both are equivalent products according to Mike Jacobsen at Art Craft.

    Don Bryant

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    John_Brewer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    Also what % solution does one have when the FO is mixed in aqueois form? 27%?
    Farber's recipe says 20%, I'm not sure about the recipe on Eric's site. I have no idea how you can test it either, a hydrometer maybe? Of course a lower dilution can easily be made to whatever percentage you want providing you know the original strength using the criss-cross method.

    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    There is also an article on the B&S web site for making dry FO. Either method seems like a lot of work and brings up the question, "Is making FO cost effective vs. purchasing dry FO?"
    I totally agree. I've decided that when I need FO I'm gonna buy the dry version.

    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    Art Craft has a bit better price on FO compared to B&S, both are equivalent products according to Mike Jacobsen at Art Craft.

    Don Bryant
    Thanks for the heads up there Don.
    ~John~
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  8. #8
    Shinnya's Avatar
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    Don,

    That is where I usually buy it from. I just bought a pound of it... It seem to work fine.

    Warmly,
    Tsuyoshi


    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    Art Craft has a bit better price on FO compared to B&S, both are equivalent products according to Mike Jacobsen at Art Craft.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    "Is making FO cost effective vs. purchasing dry FO?"
    If you value your time, most definitely no, IMO. The quality of the B&S stuff is very good and it's very consistent. I've had mixed results with Artcraft's. B&S makes their's in-house, Artcraft is getting it from another supplier, I believe. I'm not knocking Artcraft, I'm a very happy customer of theirs. It's just that good, consistent FO is important if you want to make consistently good pt/pd prints. And compared to the other costs that go into making a print, the cost is negligible. For an 8x10 print that costs between $2 and $3 in materials, roughly 15 cents is in the ferric.
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  10. #10
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerik
    If you value your time, most definitely no, IMO. The quality of the B&S stuff is very good and it's very consistent. I've had mixed results with Artcraft's. B&S makes their's in-house, Artcraft is getting it from another supplier, I believe. I'm not knocking Artcraft, I'm a very happy customer of theirs. It's just that good, consistent FO is important if you want to make consistently good pt/pd prints. And compared to the other costs that go into making a print, the cost is negligible. For an 8x10 print that costs between $2 and $3 in materials, roughly 15 cents is in the ferric.
    Thanks Kerik. After mulling the whole thing over I agree making FO isn't worth the effort.

    Don

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