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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by billschwab
    I''ve heard others speak badly of Platinotype as well. I had a cheap source and got 50 sheets recently and haven't had any trouble. However, I have not had the chance to try the COT or Platine and have some of both on order. What kind of results should I expect as opposed to the Cranes?

    Bill
    Bill, you are in for a BIG surprise I think...there is just nothing like a good paper (not that I think Platinotype is bad...after all I started with Cranes Kid Finish - everything seems great after that )
    Mike C

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  2. #12
    bill schwab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by photomc
    Bill, you are in for a BIG surprise
    Thanks Mike. Having printed on a lot of Kid Finish, the Platinotype was refreshing simply for the fact it didn't come apart in my hands!

    Are the benefits ease of use, image quality or both? I find with the Platinotype that I love the look while wet, but can be disappointed with the drying as it seems to dry to the middle. The spark in the highlights diminishes while the dmax fades.

    Bill

  3. #13

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    Thank you all for your input .Eric and Keith, I will try your way to see how it works. I will keep you updated. Thanks a bunch.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by billschwab
    Thanks Mike. Having printed on a lot of Kid Finish, the Platinotype was refreshing simply for the fact it didn't come apart in my hands!

    Are the benefits ease of use, image quality or both? I find with the Platinotype that I love the look while wet, but can be disappointed with the drying as it seems to dry to the middle. The spark in the highlights diminishes while the dmax fades.

    Bill
    Bill, If you are not spraying your prints with anything after they are through the process and dry, you might see this often. Not wanting to subject mine to a yellowing down the line, I stopped spraying prints in the early 90's after talking with Shure Guard, makers of MacDonald laquers. However, with the coming of age of digital and all of its needs, I am now using DCP protective spray in a 1:1 gloss to Satin mix. It is a water soluable spray that I use with a compressor and moisture trap. It brings back some of that pop that you lose without it.

    Kerik may be able to add to this, but how about just a non color coat of gum?

    Eric

  5. #15
    bill schwab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EricNeilsen
    Bill, If you are not spraying your prints with anything after they are through the process and dry, you might see this often
    Thanks Eric,

    No, I am not treating the images after drying as I have always been told that introduction of any coatings limits the archival quality. I realize that with platinum work I am not going to retain the dmax and spark I see wet. It is the same with silver papers. I also don't want to sacrifice shadow detail simply to get blacker blacks. I'm just trying to maximize what I can, where I can without coatings, conservators wax, etc. I have tested several different papers and am happy with what I have been able to do thus far, but I have not yet tried the COT and Platine and was hoping someone could describe what is so much better than the Platinotype.

    Thanks again,

    Bill

  6. #16
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    Bill,

    Just buy a few sheets of Platine and try it. I'd recommend double-coating for most images, other than high-key images which don't usually need it. To me, the difference between Platine and cranes is like the difference between mahogany and particle board. For one, Platine is a much more substantial paper than birdcageotype. This becomes more important as your prints get larger. Also, it retains it's smooth surface ofter wetting and drying much better than cranes which gets kind of fuzzy. If all goes well, you should end up with a richer overall image with a longer scale, smoother tonal transitions and warmer color. I hope you're using potassium oxalate developer?

    Personally, I don't have any problem using coatings that are considered archival for other types of artwork. Photographers can get a little too anal about this issue, IMO. I use Reniassance Wax or Liquitex Gloss Medium to give a subtle sheen and richen the blacks a bit. Waxing a print on birdcageotype is probably not a good idea due to the soft surface of the paper. I'm also going to try the Breathing Color coatings that are made for inkjet prints.
    Kerik Kouklis
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    2014 Workshop Schedule Online

  7. #17
    bill schwab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerik
    I hope you're using potassium oxalate developer?
    Oh yes... I've learned that lesson. So smooth...

    I appreciate your help Kerik as always. I have both Platine and Cot 320 on order and it should be here soon. I actually have liked the cageotype, so I am expecting great things from the Platine. Good to know your feelings on coatings as well. I may give it a try to see for myself.

    "birdcageotype"

    Bill

  8. #18
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    I've been a dedicated Platine user since I took Kerik's workshop a number of years ago but recently decided to try Platinotype aka Crane's Cover #90, just for the heck of it. My (albeit limited) experience showed that Platinotype tears MUCH more easily when wet than Platinotype and gets weird fuzzy areas that can totally ruin a print, depending on where they land. It also seems to take a lot longer to clear than Platine. Platine is like a wonderful piece of chocolate truffle cake, Platinotype is a supermarket doughnut.

    Gerhard
    [FONT=Georgia][COLOR=DimGray]Member of the Contact Printers Guild[/FONT][/COLOR]

  9. #19
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    The COT 320 is probably as close to a silver-based paper as you can get for Pt/Pd, in that it is a very pure white base, which will give you higher contrast naturally. It is also very easy to coat, clears well, and is extremely durable in handling during processing. It requires no extra steps such as pre-treating in Oxalic Acid. I think you'll really like it when you get it. The big downside is of course the cost, especially if you start printing bigger than 8x10.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by gbock
    I've been a dedicated Platine user since I took Kerik's workshop a number of years ago but recently decided to try Platinotype aka Crane's Cover #90, just for the heck of it. My (albeit limited) experience showed that Platinotype tears MUCH more easily when wet than Platinotype and gets weird fuzzy areas that can totally ruin a print, depending on where they land. It also seems to take a lot longer to clear than Platine. Platine is like a wonderful piece of chocolate truffle cake, Platinotype is a supermarket doughnut.

    Gerhard
    Are we talking about the same paper? I agree with you about the Crane's Cover #90, called Kid Finish I believe. Requires very careful coating, tends to tear, does not develop good Dmax, and requires agressive clearing.

    On the other hand, I have had great results from Crane's Platinotype, which in my experience in on a par with COT 320. So Keriks comments about Platinotype make me wonder if we are talking about the same paper. I agree with comments Kerik has made about most papers, so am somewhat confused by his remarks about Platinotype?

    Sandy

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