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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    One of the problems with using Cranes Cover is determining the "good" side from the "bad" side. To do this I have to loupe the paper and inspect the paper grain under magnification. The side with longer rougher fiber is the "bad" side. Cover is okay to work with up to about 11x14 , larger than that and it rips very easily once wet and don't use any heavier than the 90# as it will delaminate and bubble once soaked for a while.

    Cranes Cover works pretty well with VDB and ziatype, IME, but as Sandy has pointed out can be more difficult to clear. Not a great paper but an adequate one at an affordable price. Magic brush coating pretty much eliminates the fuzzies.
    Well, I am confused. I have some paper that is clearly labeled Cranes Platinotype (from B&S ) , and some other from Formulary that is labeled as Cranes Cover 90 lb Wove. Are these in fact the same paper?

    Sandy

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    Well, I am confused. I have some paper that is clearly labeled Cranes Platinotype (from B&S ) , and some other from Formulary that is labeled as Cranes Cover 90 lb Wove. Are these in fact the same paper?

    Sandy
    To be honest I'm confused about that as well. Carl Weese says they are the same, so I just took his word for it. His comment lies somewhere in the Alt Process Mail list archives. I may have it in my own archive. Never the less that's been my impression but I've never purchased Platinotype (aka. cageotype in Placerville, CA) so I can't say from first hand experience.
    Don Bryant

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanking
    Well, I am confused. I have some paper that is clearly labeled Cranes Platinotype (from B&S ) , and some other from Formulary that is labeled as Cranes Cover 90 lb Wove. Are these in fact the same paper?
    In all likelihood, yes. I've seen that same paper called:

    Cranes Platinotype
    Cranes Artificial Parchment
    Cranes Business Card Stock
    Cranes Cover Stock
    Cranes Crest Natural White Wove

    Do they look the same and print the same? One of the other reasons I don't like this paper (other than poor wet strength, fuzziness, etc) is that to me, it just lacks character. Part of the enjoyment of hand made photographs are their tactile nature. A nice paper like Platine or BFK just feels good in your hands.

    I've used Cranes as well as the other papers mentioned in workshops for many years. The vast majority of students gravitate to Platine or COT or BFK after trying Cranes.

    I know that Dick Arentz prints on this paper, but it's my understanding that for his own work he's using a very old stash that was made many years ago. I don't think today's "Platinotype" is the same animal.
    Kerik Kouklis
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    2014 Workshop Schedule Online

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    (aka. cageotype in Placerville, CA) so I can't say from first hand experience.
    Don,

    That's Birdcageotype. :-P
    Kerik Kouklis
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    www.kerik.com
    2014 Workshop Schedule Online

  5. #35
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    Twin Rocker Deckle Edge

    Quote Originally Posted by Tri Tran
    Hi
    When I develop Platinum/Paladium prints, my prints tend to have smeared water marks “bleeding” from the edge of my prints(8x10) toward the outside when it dry. I used B/S platinotype paper.
    Has anyone seen this or run into this problem? What causes the problem and how do you get rid of it? Thanks for your help.Tri Tran
    Sorry about jacking your thread Tri, but since we are discussing papers does anyone have any experience with Twin Rocker Deckle Edge? I have a small stash of this paper but haven't ever tried it since it's texture seems to call for a "special" image. Aside from that though how does it print with plt/pld?
    Don Bryant

  6. #36

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    Hi Don,
    No worries. I enjoyed your discussions. Nothing happened yet. I’m still waiting for the paper to be shipped. Thanks for checking.

  7. #37
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    Don,
    I treat it like Fabriano Extra White. 5 minute oxalic acid soak pre-treatment, and dry. Coat, dry w/ hairdryer after a minute of rest post-coating. Let it rehumidify to ambient R.H. and then print. Seems slower than Platine and some images seem to benefit from double coating.

    Clay

    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    Sorry about jacking your thread Tri, but since we are discussing papers does anyone have any experience with Twin Rocker Deckle Edge? I have a small stash of this paper but haven't ever tried it since it's texture seems to call for a "special" image. Aside from that though how does it print with plt/pld?
    I just want to feel nostalgic like I used to.


    http://www.clayharmon.net - turnip extraordinaire

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by clay
    Don,
    I treat it like Fabriano Extra White. 5 minute oxalic acid soak pre-treatment, and dry. Coat, dry w/ hairdryer after a minute of rest post-coating. Let it rehumidify to ambient R.H. and then print. Seems slower than Platine and some images seem to benefit from double coating.

    Clay
    Thanks Clay, now to find the right image for that paper!
    Don Bryant

  9. #39
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    palladium toner also bleeding

    I'm a little late joining in on this thread but I'm sure glad I found it!
    I have been having the same bleeding problem from using palladium toner with VDB prints, but had no idea what was happening.
    Initially, I thought it might be light leaks from the edge of the negative creating small stained areas at the outer edges of the image.
    I was using Stonehenge paper but have switched to Platine and the problem has basically dissapeared.
    thanks
    david

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