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  1. #1
    buggy's Avatar
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    Sabattier effect T55p/n

    My attempt today at the Sabattier effect. The attached images are the positive and negative. The negative has not been inverted in PS and shows a high degree of image reversal.

    The first thumb is the positive and the second is the negative.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SunFlower-neg.jpg   SunFlower-pos.jpg  

  2. #2
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    These examples don't appear to be 'there' yet.

    You should see distinct lines around objects when the proper degree is achieved.

    PE

  3. #3
    buggy's Avatar
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    Yeah, I was looking for the lines too.

    Since I almost got total reversal I think it might have gone too far.

    What's your opinion, was it too much or still not enough? More bursts? Less initial exposure? I'm too new at this to know.

    I've got a couple other images to evaluate so maybe those have the lines.

  4. #4
    buggy's Avatar
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    This one is the inverted negative, showing how it would print. Alot of reversal. The flower petals are white. I see some dark lines around some of the flower image. Is this closer to 'there'?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails flowerssabneg002_ed_invert.jpg  

  5. #5
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    Well, the inverted negative looks better.

    Usually though Sabattier is an effect of development and flash. Solarization is classically done only in-camera with long expsures. They give different visible results.

    So, with my own work, I use a very low level exposure about 3/4 of the way through developent of a print. I have no idea how to do it with Polaroids. But, as I said, that last one looks pretty close.

    PE

  6. #6
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    I might add too, that I do it in color so my B&W methodology is a bit rusty.

    PE

  7. #7
    buggy's Avatar
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    Hey PE,

    Understand, I am newbie at this, but this is how I approach it. I've read a couple of different ways to do this, and Alex and Bob have been a big help to me in understanding this.

    For the polaroid T55, give an initial in-camera exposure of about half that for a normal exposure. Then at about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way through development peel apart the print/negative sandwich. I have the best luck at about 5 seconds. Then hit the negative with a flash burst, or many bursts, and clear the negative. The burst will reverse the image to a small or large extent depending on initial exposure, power of burst, distance from flash to negative, development time, etc. Many variables.

    The goal is to get about half of the image to reverse. That's why on my first example I got almost total reversal and thought maybe I went too far. However, I'm not that familiar with this to know that for sure. I don't know if more flash would give me the mackie lines, or if it needed less flash.

    Anyway, I would be interested in seeing a couple of your images that have this effect. If you are so inclined you could post them here or PM me.

  8. #8
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buggy
    For the polaroid T55, give an initial in-camera exposure of about half that for a normal exposure.
    Buggy, we may be getting on the wrong track with exposure. Here's an article I found which talks about increasing exposure by one stop over normal and flashing with a low-power flash. http://www.iconpublications.com/phot...psolaroid.html

    I was exposing mine at the nominal asa 25, and it was taking the full-power setting on my flash to get the amount of reversal I was getting.
    Semper Fi & God Bless America
    My Photography Blog

  9. #9
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    Sabattier effect in color

    Ok, here are 2 prints I scanned in.

    #1 is a print from EPP cross processed in C41

    #2 is the same, but I flashed to tungsten light during development. RA processing was at 68 degrees to control development time.

    PE
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails flower trio 1.jpg   flower trio 2.jpg  

  10. #10
    buggy's Avatar
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    Thanks Alex.

    Very informative and interesting article.

    According to the article, the lines, that are referenced in this thread by PE, form between areas that have reversed and areas that have not reversed. That is why I didn't get any lines in the sunflower image, because the entire image reversed. The 'solarization' went too far to show any lines.

    Just thinking out loud here, it seems that the more in-camera exposure you give, within boundaries, the less percentage of the total image is reversed, and if you can find approximately a 50/50 reversal, that is the goal. Total reversal, like in my sunflower, is pretty much useless unless you want a print that looks like a negative.

    Thanks again for the info.

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