Good film for Platinum printing?

[Lachlan Young]

After seeing a few platinum prints I have decided to have a go using the Rockland Colloid kit. I was wondering if there are any films that are especially good for platinum printing - especially with regard to the level of UV transmission. I would be working in 4x5. I intend to develop the negatives in Moersch Tanol - a premixed catechol developer similar to Pyrocat and am wondering if I can use the manufacturer's recommended times and EIs for silver printing due to the effect of the stain on UV light?

All help much appreciated,

Lachlan

[Donald Miller]

No, you can not use the same times because the process requires a negative with a higher DR then silver printing. So far as films, those that come to mind are Tmax 400, Efke PL 100, Ilford FP4. Other films such as Bergger BPF 200 do not have the capability to build the needed contrast.

You can find more information on films and times that are suitable in the article written by Sandy King and posted on www.unblinkingeye.com

Good luck.

[donbga]

After seeing a few platinum prints I have decided to have a go using the Rockland Colloid kit. I was wondering if there are any films that are especially good for platinum printing - especially with regard to the level of UV transmission. I would be working in 4x5. I intend to develop the negatives in Moersch Tanol - a premixed catechol developer similar to Pyrocat and am wondering if I can use the manufacturer's recommended times and EIs for silver printing due to the effect of the stain on UV light?

All help much appreciated,

Lachlan

What is the Rockland Colloid kit?

As for the correct developments times I would encourage you to determine this empirically basing your intiall times on the manufacture's recommended times.

[Lachlan Young]

What is the Rockland Colloid kit?

You can get it from HERE in the UK and from Rockland themselves in the USA.

Hope this helps,

Lachlan

[JBrunner]

I don't know about catechol, as it has a tan stain, but it is possible to make negatives with pyrogallol that print well with silver and platinum as the stain has a different density as far as UV light is concerned. I have had good luck with PMK in the past. I have not tried with a pyrocat neg.

[sanking]

After seeing a few platinum prints I have decided to have a go using the Rockland Colloid kit. I was wondering if there are any films that are especially good for platinum printing - especially with regard to the level of UV transmission. I would be working in 4x5. I intend to develop the negatives in Moersch Tanol - a premixed catechol developer similar to Pyrocat and am wondering if I can use the manufacturer's recommended times and EIs for silver printing due to the effect of the stain on UV light?

All help much appreciated,

Lachlan

Hi Lachian,

You will no doubt get some differences of opinion on the best films for Pt./Pd. printing. My rank for use with a catechol based developed similar to Pyrocat-HD would be as follows, but notice the caveats.

1. FP4+ -- Best overall, when film speed and reciprocity characteristics are not an issue. Pros -- Very low B+F or general stain, even with very long development times with rotary agitation. Nice straight line curve and good expansion and contractin potential. Cons -- low film speed, significant reciprocity failure with exposures over 1/2 second.

2. Tmax-400 -- Great film overall, and #1 when speed and reciprocity are important. Pros -- high film speed, good reciprocity characteristic and outstanding expansion and contaction potential. Cons -- Develops fairly high B+F with staining developers in rotary processing, though some formulas much better than others.

3. Tri-X-320 -- Favorite film for Pt./Pd. printing of Dick Arentz. Pros-- Good film speed, good expansion and contraction potential, and flaring curves that increases separation and contrast in the print highlights. Cons -- significant reciprocity failure, high B+F with staining developers with rotary agitation.

4. Efke PL-100 -- Pros -- Good expansion and contraction potential, flaring curve similar to Tri-X320, low B+F with rotary agitation. Cons -- significant reciprocity failure, develops significant B+F after expiration.

As for development times, if your developer is a Pyrocat-HD derivative, as are a lot of catechol based developers, you might try the times in the article at www.unblinkingeye.com mentioned by Donald. But if your Moersch Tanol developer is not similar to Pyrocat-HD you will have to work out times on your own. Sorry, I am not familiar with the Moersch Tanol formula.


Sandy King

[donbga]

I don't know about catechol, as it has a tan stain, but it is possible to make negatives with pyrogallol that print well with silver and platinum as the stain has a different density as far as UV light is concerned. I have had good luck with PMK in the past. I have not tried with a pyrocat neg.

I would avoid PMK for UV based processes. The PMK stain makes printing times longer than needed or desirable.

[Kerik]

I would avoid PMK for UV based processes. The PMK stain makes printing times longer than needed or desirable.

For another perspective, I've been using PMK and it's close cousin Rollo Pyro exclusively for pt/pd priting for about 15 years. My exposure times are typically in the 3 to 8 minute range with a bank of 40Watt UV flourescents. Favorite films are FP4+ and TMY.

[donbga]

For another perspective, I've been using PMK and it's close cousin Rollo Pyro exclusively for pt/pd priting for about 15 years. My exposure times are typically in the 3 to 8 minute range with a bank of 40Watt UV flourescents. Favorite films are FP4+ and TMY.

So what is your solution for avoiding un-needed stain with PMK? I
know that the after fix developer soak creates useless stain with PMK. And I don't normally associate Rollo-Pyro with PMK even though they are similar developers, hence my comments were not directed toward Rollo-Pyro developed films.

FWIW, I've been very happy with Pyro-Cat for several years but I agree with what you often say, "If it ain't broke ..."

[JBrunner]

So what is your solution for avoiding un-needed stain with PMK? I
know that the after fix developer soak creates useless stain with PMK. And I don't normally associate Rollo-Pyro with PMK even though they are similar developers, hence my comments were not directed toward Rollo-Pyro developed films.

FWIW, I've been very happy with Pyro-Cat for several years but I agree with what you often say, "If it ain't broke ..."

The after fix soak is out. Hutchings agrees.

Print times are negligable for me anyway because I am using a 1000w NuArc.
I was addressing the question of dual purpose negatives, and I have been able to do that with PMK. Have you tried dual printing with a Pyrocat neg? I'm curious because in some respects Pyrocat is an easier developer for me to work with.