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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Aurora, OH
    Shooter
    ULarge Format
    Posts
    76
    I have used Jon's print drying units in my workshops. Drying prints and cooling tubes and ballasts are two totally different functions. The purpose of a print drying box is to heat air and exhaust humidity - not give even flow of cooler air around tubes and ballasts for cooling. Air is pushed over a heating element to provide maximum efficiency of the energy used in the heating element. The air is then blown over the coated paper to dry the moist coating. Cooling electronics is a completely different matter. I'll stick with the designs proven out by hundreds of thousands of installations in manufacturing facilities around the world in industrial control applications.

    If pushing air into your darkroom works for you, go with it. I'm guessing you still have some form of filtration for dust. Most professional darkrooms use negative pressure designs because the primary purpose is to draw chemical fumes away from where you are working. Jon has some pretty good designs in this area as well and have seen some pretty good designs using standard PVC pipe. Designs for clean rooms in electronics wafer manufacturing are a whole different matter and I won't even go there because the requirements are so much more stringent.
    Last edited by bobherbst; 01-17-2007 at 01:36 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Shooter
    ULarge Format
    Posts
    86
    Bob,

    Yes, I do have heavily filtered, temperature controlled air blown in from each end of my 20 ft. long darkroom by a commercial roof mounted blower unit on a rheostat. The air reaches into all corners of the room and exits through a 20" diameter duct, which is positioned 4' over the center of my 19' sink. As with Edwards vent system positioning, this system is extremely efficient at removing the fumes. The darkroom stays fresh all day (or night) even with the doors closed. And, as I mentioned, the positive air pressure has done wonders to reduce the dust.

    I understand your point about the difference between the heating and cooling units.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    182
    My lightbox has a top and bottom on either side of a horizontal 3/4" about square board. I mounted my ballasts above onto this board, and I mounted my lights below onto this board. I drilled small holes, where I needed to thread wires between the top and bottom.

    I cut three holes in one side of my UV box for three larger sized computer fans. Half of each of these holes extends to the top portion of my UV souce, and the bottom half of each hole extends to the bottom portion of my uv source. That is to say, the 3x4" horizontal board cuts these three holes in the middle. I cut several holes in the opposite side of my UV source, which although smaller, also extend both into the top and bottom halves of my UV source. These smaller holes allow air into the box, so that it can be extracted on the opposite side by the fans. In this way, I get a nice, even flow of air across both the ballasts above and the lights below.

    Whether or not one needs three or one fan, I'm not sure. Three certainly does the job of one. For health concerns, I covered these holes with a simple light trap design painted black on the interior, so that the escaping UV light can't be seen. Let's the air through, but doesn't let the light through.

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