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Thread: Dry Tintype

  1. #11

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    Jason

    The varnish is used to hold the emulsion or it will peel right off the plate when drying. I made a simpler emulsion using the unwashed kind with only po.brom. but found it has to be washed to adheer to plates, it is actualy faster than AJ-12 and makes much better negatives,I think that will be my standard for neg use,and it is really easy to make. I do'nt add silver a little at a time as the instructions say but all at once.

    This emulsion has had some problems for tintypes but I think the plates may have been contaminated or something,I did get a few positives from it with instantanious exposures.

    For now the AJ-12 wil be used for positives, D-19 developer makes for a better comtrast but the plates have to be devloped for 3 minutes rather than 90sec.as with dektol.

    I shot some 5x7's today and most were a little over exposed.

  2. #12
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    When making dry-plate negs, what are you coating them onto? I assume glass...

  3. #13

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    Yes, Glass is the only thing I use for negatives, so far subbing has not been needed.

  4. #14
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    Have you ever tried a pyro-based developer, like Pyrocat HD, or PPPD?

  5. #15
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    Kevin,

    Interesting thread, a couple of things I'm curious about:

    1. Why didn't you opt for say... Liquid Light (or the Agxx flavor)? Seems Liquid Light would help with contrast (VC Flavor) and be simpler.

    2. Why coat with varnish instead of using somekind of gelatin base?

    Curious.
    -
    Daniel

  6. #16

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    Daniel

    The reasons for not using a premade emulsion, at least for me, is cost. I did not usualy use all of a whole 8 oz of emulsion in a year so making my own on a smaller scale was much less wasetfull. Also the cost, I do a lot of experimenting and there is no point in desroying something that is priced more than what you can make yourself, besides,the Liquid light is too thick for my liking and I prefer to do my own concocting and equipment building.

    The varnish is used so the emulsion will hold to the trophy plate, without it the emulsion will simply peel right off during drying. I tryed the gelatin subbing, but of course that is the same thing the emulsion is made with too,and will not stick.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin klein View Post
    I used .020 thick black trophy plate coated with clear gloss poly urithane spray,dried a few days befor coating. The back of the plates also have a coat of varnish to keep from reacting with the developer.

    I have been using wet and dry plate holders but a cut film holder will work as long as the plate is cut narriow enugh to fit between the guides and it will slide under the top portion of the holder while the bottom part of the holder covers over the bottom of the plate. When using a film holder it would be best to modify it a little by carving down the hinged bottem part a little so the plate won't put pressure on it but it will still work if you don't.

    I have thaught about giving the iron developer a try but think that if it did work there would have been something mentioned about it in the old manuals, and I have read through pleanty of them. Tihink I'll give it a try any way.


    Some thing you shuld know about this process, it makes the developer turn murkey after a few plates, but pouring it into a tall jar or bottle the solution will clear by the next day and can be used again. It seemed that it has a limit of reuse, maybe a few times?
    Kevin--

    Have you tried the iron developer idea in the past year since this post was active? I'm curious to know if it worked.

    Thanks for the recipes and details; very useful. Please update us (or just me!) on what you've learned. I'm trying to make dry-plates work well, also, since I am not excited about the toxicity of wet-plates. But making a dry-plate look as crispy and lovely as a wet-plate is tricky.... There must be a way.

    Fritz

  8. #18

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    Fritz
    Iron developer does not work. The only thing that makes the positive image on these plates is the Ammoniumthyocyanate. Unfortunatly, I have discovered that these plates only work if the humidity is very low and the temperature is not over 70 deg.f or else the emulsion will self destruct in the developer due to the its thinness and the thyocyonate.

    If you are making or want to make an emulsion for negatives, I have instructions for a formula that I made and works quite well.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin klein View Post
    Fritz
    Iron developer does not work. The only thing that makes the positive image on these plates is the Ammoniumthyocyanate. Unfortunatly, I have discovered that these plates only work if the humidity is very low and the temperature is not over 70 deg.f or else the emulsion will self destruct in the developer due to the its thinness and the thyocyonate.

    If you are making or want to make an emulsion for negatives, I have instructions for a formula that I made and works quite well.
    Thanks, Kevin. Is there somewhere online I can view your work?

    Of all the things you've tried, what's produced that best contrast?

    I'm trying my own developer later this week (dektol + ammonium thiocyanate) with both Ag+ and the Rollei emulsion. I'm also going to experiment with toners, to see if I can brighten the 'white' of the image, even though I'm told it won't work. (You never know...)

    Thanks for your help.

  10. #20

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    Fritz
    I think you will have good luck with the ready made emulsion,that is something I have wanted to try myself.
    You can also use Kodak D-19 full strength for the developer as well as Ilfor paper developerdiluted 1 part dev to 4 parts water. using the same 1gm cyonate to the fluid ounce of developer. The D-19 has given a little better contrast and takes 3 minuets for development, the others take about one and a half minutes.

    You can see some of my work at kevinklein.biz it is mostly collodion.

    Have fun with your project.

    Toner will darken the image.

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