Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,716   Posts: 1,514,791   Online: 824
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11
  1. #1
    dustym's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Essex, just outside London
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    165
    Images
    9

    Any Tips on toning Cyanotype

    I have tea toned some cyananotypes other than bleaching is there any other info out there on using any other toning methods that are not hazardous


    rgds
    Dusty
    The camera cannot lie, but it cannot help being selective.

  2. #2
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Washington DC
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    8,154
    Blog Entries
    51
    Images
    432
    Define "Hazardous". I've seen prints of all kinds toned in anything from coffee to Uranium. Uranium and Mercury being on one extreme end (definitely in the Hazardous range), coffee being the other. I've even heard of bodily fluids being used (don't ask). A lot of toners would fall in the middle between mercury and coffee. To me, most toners are perfectly safe so long as you use reasonable precautions - rubber gloves, don't drink it, don't put it up your nose. Even sepia toner is more stinky than harmful. Just use well-ventilated and you're fine.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    8
    You could use a warm lead acetate solution to give a more lavender shade but it also lightly bleaches the image and isn't too repeatable.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Istanbul, Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    636
    Quote Originally Posted by cp goerz View Post
    You could use a warm lead acetate solution to give a more lavender shade but it also lightly bleaches the image and isn't too repeatable.
    Please note that Lead Acetate is quite toxic! IME, Lead Acetate gives a more blue (usual cyanotype color minus green) color, without bleaching. Maybe solution's strength was too high (I use 5% Lead Acetate).

    Regards,
    Loris.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Prescott, Arizona
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    127
    Images
    4
    I recently tea toned some cyanotypes in black tea brewed VERY strong (1/4 cup of loose leaf tea in 1 pint of water). I didn't bleach, subsequently i had to leave the prints in the toner for a long time (4 hours).

    The cyanos after that time lost all their deep prussian blue, which was replaced by a reddish brown. the overall density was reduced about a half stop (this is a guess), and left a creamy yellow in the high lights.

    Test this before putting your prize winner in it.

    Christopher Breitenstein

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Istanbul, Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    636
    Hi,

    FWIW, when I bleach the prints before toning (using mild alkali solutions such as Sodium Carbonate / Borax / Ammonia) *without letting the bleach affect the darkest shadows* and then tone with tannic acid, I get a considerable dmax increase w/o stain (tea will stain the paper considerably). See an example here (split toned as I described above):

    http://www.loris.medici.name/Cappado...-Cyanotype.jpg

    If you clear the print thoroughly (4 minutes development in plain water + 4 minutes 2% citric acid + 10 minutes final wash - changing water at least 5 times) before toning in tannic acid, you'll have cleaner whites = a much more snappy print.

    Regards,
    Loris.

    Quote Originally Posted by chrisofwlp View Post
    I recently tea toned some cyanotypes in black tea brewed VERY strong (1/4 cup of loose leaf tea in 1 pint of water). I didn't bleach, subsequently i had to leave the prints in the toner for a long time (4 hours).

    The cyanos after that time lost all their deep prussian blue, which was replaced by a reddish brown. the overall density was reduced about a half stop (this is a guess), and left a creamy yellow in the high lights.

    Test this before putting your prize winner in it.

    Christopher Breitenstein

  7. #7
    dustym's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Essex, just outside London
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    165
    Images
    9

    really helpful thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Loris Medici View Post
    Hi,

    FWIW, when I bleach the prints before toning (using mild alkali solutions such as Sodium Carbonate / Borax / Ammonia) *without letting the bleach affect the darkest shadows* and then tone with tannic acid, I get a considerable dmax increase w/o stain (tea will stain the paper considerably). See an example here (split toned as I described above):

    http://www.loris.medici.name/Cappado...-Cyanotype.jpg

    If you clear the print thoroughly (4 minutes development in plain water + 4 minutes 2% citric acid + 10 minutes final wash - changing water at least 5 times) before toning in tannic acid, you'll have cleaner whites = a much more snappy print.

    Regards,
    Loris.
    The camera cannot lie, but it cannot help being selective.

  8. #8
    patrickjames's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    743
    I have been gradually getting back into cyanotypes lately and had this same question. A little google search ended up giving me loads of information. Unblinking eye has a good section on this if I remember correctly. Give "the google" a try.

    Patrick

  9. #9
    Bob K.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Gainesville, FL
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    96
    Images
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Loris Medici View Post
    Hi,

    FWIW, when I bleach the prints before toning (using mild alkali solutions such as Sodium Carbonate / Borax / Ammonia) *without letting the bleach affect the darkest shadows* and then tone with tannic acid, I get a considerable dmax increase w/o stain (tea will stain the paper considerably). See an example here (split toned as I described above):

    http://www.loris.medici.name/Cappado...-Cyanotype.jpg

    If you clear the print thoroughly (4 minutes development in plain water + 4 minutes 2% citric acid + 10 minutes final wash - changing water at least 5 times) before toning in tannic acid, you'll have cleaner whites = a much more snappy print.

    Regards,
    Loris.
    how much tannic acid is used? and does the print need to be cleared after toning?

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Istanbul, Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    636
    Quantity: I use 1 dessert spoon per 1lt. It dissolves very slowly. It's reusable with filtering.
    Washing: I don't know - but I wash the print thoroughly after toning.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob K. View Post
    how much tannic acid is used? and does the print need to be cleared after toning?

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin