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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobertP View Post
    That's intersting that Sandy didn't mention HP5. Is there a reason for this? Because it is a faster film than the FP4.
    I did not mention TRI-X 320 either.

    Either HP5+ or TRI-X 320 would work fine for scenes of normal contrast with a pt/pd mix. However, neither of these films is capable of enough contrast to give really good resuslts with albumen and salted paper printing, and probably not with straight palladium either, except in scenes of normal or above average contrast.

    Someone suggested on another site a possible improvement to the HP5+ emulsion to increase its potential to develop CI. Anyone know anything about this?

    Sandy

  2. #12
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    I am using FP4, developed in Ilford Universal PQ Developer. It is a nice combination that is working for me right now. If I ever get a more powerful exposure unit, I might try pyro again.

  3. #13

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    Steve Simmons posted a rather veiled comment about HP5+ on a thread about a $10,000 Kodak film order. I'm not exactly sure why such secrecy is required, but I suppose knowledge is power.
    Last edited by Rob Vinnedge; 03-07-2007 at 10:46 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14

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    what about Ilford XP2 film is it any good or not

    zgan

  5. #15
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    They don't make XP2 in anything bigger than 120, and the orange mask in the film base is not a proportional stain, it is a uniform stain which just adds density. For alt-process, avoid like the plague. For silver-gelatin based enlarging, it's wonderful.

  6. #16

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    I assume from all the posts folks are contact printing in-camera originals; yet I'm surprised no one has mentioned enlarged negatives. Arista APHS lithographic film from Freestyle. Very inexpensive, and it can even be shot in-camera (LF 4x5) - I think I found it to be around ISO 5 or 10. Develop by inspection with common paper developer under normal darkroom safelight lighting.

  7. #17
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    Danny you bring up an interesting point. Ive contemplated buying some sheets of 20x24 APHS Litho Film to cut down to 12x20 and shoot in camera. Any tips are trying to what to develop it in that would heed a continuous tone neg (preferably one to print in pt/pd)?

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by scootermm View Post
    Danny you bring up an interesting point. Ive contemplated buying some sheets of 20x24 APHS Litho Film to cut down to 12x20 and shoot in camera. Any tips are trying to what to develop it in that would heed a continuous tone neg (preferably one to print in pt/pd)?
    Matt, You might benefit from Jim Galli's work with this film. As I recall, Jim came up with a Rodinal type developer for use with this film. I think that Galli posted a formula for this developer somewhere on Apug.

    I have worked with the film for masking applications, and it will work as a continuous tone material with Dektol at 1-10 dilutions...but I imagine that Jim's developer will probably work better for your intended application.

    This film should be capable of the producing the density range that you require for your process. The downside is the slow speed (EI 3-6)
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by scootermm View Post
    Danny you bring up an interesting point. I've contemplated buying some sheets of 20x24 APHS Litho Film to cut down to 12x20 and shoot in camera. Any tips are trying to what to develop it in that would heed a continuous tone neg (preferably one to print in pt/pd)?
    Here is a link to Jim's formula.

    http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com/Fr...SwRodinal.html

    From what I read a slow-working developer is better than a highly diluted one.

    Vaughn

  10. #20

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    Wimberley's Pyro with APHS

    I have used Wimberley's pyro formula with APHS in making enlarged negatives for Pt/Pd printing. It performs well and is a soft working formula which yields a nice continous tone negative with APHS. You will find an article I wrote on the UnblinkingEye and on my own web site. It was published in View Camera in the May/June 2002 issue if you have an old copy around. Included is the Wimberley formula but you could use PMK or ABC. One thing to remember in using this film is it has a low fog threshold and so you will likely want to use some 10% bromide in the developer as a restrainer to hold back fog. That will affect film speed somewhat, but this film is slow enough that I don't think it really matters. Also, when buying APHS film, you want the stock that is made in Japan, not the stock made in the US. There is a different silver content which makes a difference for continuous tone applications.

    Bob Herbst


    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Miller View Post
    Matt, You might benefit from Jim Galli's work with this film. As I recall, Jim came up with a Rodinal type developer for use with this film. I think that Galli posted a formula for this developer somewhere on Apug.

    I have worked with the film for masking applications, and it will work as a continuous tone material with Dektol at 1-10 dilutions...but I imagine that Jim's developer will probably work better for your intended application.

    This film should be capable of the producing the density range that you require for your process. The downside is the slow speed (EI 3-6)

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