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  1. #1
    DrPablo's Avatar
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    what-the-hell-is-this-o-type

    In a fit of procrastination, I decided do conduct an experiment.

    I had an 8x10 vandyke print from an extremely dense negative, and because of the long exposure time the thing was grossly solarized. There was some detail, but the surface of the print was basically shimmering silver. It sat around for a month without a purpose.

    Today I decided to see if I could bleach it to something more useful. So I dunked it in some potassium ferricyanide. Sure enough, within 10 seconds the solarization was gone, the detail was restored, the contrast range was better. But that wasn't enough for me, so after washing it I gave it a brief treatment in fotospeed gold toner, which bleached it further, made the highlights warmer and more reddish and made the shadows cooler.

    It's drying off now, but maybe I'll scan it later.

    But it got me to thinking how flexible this vandyke process might be. I was half temped to take an overexposed one, bleach it, then put it in lith developer to see what happens.

    Any other similar experiments?
    Paul

  2. #2
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    "But it got me to thinking how flexible this vandyke process might be. "

    Unfortunately, flexibility often gets in the way of repeatability! Even the time you let the print sit around for the month might have some affect on the process. But it is worth a shot! Sometimes some knowledge of the chemistry involved is handy -- sometimes it just gets in the way of the fun.

    Not an "alt process", but I recently had way too much fun bleaching a silver print (Sepia Toner, part A) until only the faintest image was left, then brought it back selectively with straight Dektol on a brush (followed by fixer, bleach again, then Sepia Part B).

    Vaughn

  3. #3
    Ole
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    The fun thing with "alt.processes" is that there are at least 45 "right" ways of doing it, and even more "wrong" ways. And most of them even work - at least once in a while.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  4. #4
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    Dr. Paul, You may want to have a look at Wynn White's vandyke method. If I'm not mistaken this is how he prints and that is to take the print extremely dark and bleach it back with a farmers bleach then tone. He has some amazing van dykes on his website.

  5. #5

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    I've made some incredibly beautiful prints with a modification of Mike Ware's Argyrotype process. I mix a solution of 7g Silver Oxide and 7.5g Sulfamic Acid in 100 ml of distilled water. I then coat a 50/50 mix of this solution and Ferric Oxalate #1, and then develop in ammonium citrate, sodium acetate or potassium oxalate. Color ranges from a near black with reddish tints, to a more traditional VBD color.

    Tonal range is awesome, I think due in part to the use of ferric oxalate instead of ferric ammonium citrate.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dana Sullivan View Post
    I've made some incredibly beautiful prints with a modification of Mike Ware's Argyrotype process. I mix a solution of 7g Silver Oxide and 7.5g Sulfamic Acid in 100 ml of distilled water. I then coat a 50/50 mix of this solution and Ferric Oxalate #1, and then develop in ammonium citrate, sodium acetate or potassium oxalate. Color ranges from a near black with reddish tints, to a more traditional VBD color.

    Tonal range is awesome, I think due in part to the use of ferric oxalate instead of ferric ammonium citrate.
    Dana,

    Do you make your own Silver Oxide? If so any tips you can share?

    Thanks,
    Don Bryant



 

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