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  1. #11

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    uv led screw base supplyer

    [QUOTE=gbenaim;485129]Z-man,

    Where do you get the led screw base UV units, and do you use just one 28 led? I'm not in the States, so the KIND of store, rather than a company's name, might be more useful. Electronics stores rather than a Home depot type place? Thanks,

    GB[/QUOTE

    i like blacklight.com in bensonville illinois ph#877.213.9094(est or cst? can't remember but he allways returns my calls if i leave a message and if i get him he will spend time)-lovely people and great service

    look for musician/nite-club/disco/theatrical/stage supplyers-black light used in clubs and theaters all over world

    elation makes the "uv wash" and chauvet makes many types of fixtures and they are carried by samedaymusic.com and musiciansfriend.com

    topbulb.com and bulbman.com also may have

    the 28 led spot will cover 8x10 at 12 ins

    tell him i sent you

    beuna suerte

    vaya con dios

  2. #12

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    can't post links-how about i list some?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Leake View Post
    Can you post a link to an example? I may have to build a new light box, but if you can make my life easier then I'll be forever grateful
    so how grateful is grateful???how about a 5x4 norma or a halfplate arca c line pro???

    better yet a halfplate gandolfi variant

    oh yes, you want sources:

    blacklight.com; superbrightled.com; topbulb.com; bulbman.com

    led=no percptable heat; cfl screw bases do heat up but not much however they are heat senstive re self ballast so in the high wattage bulb multiple installations you will still need a fan

    more better to use regular 20w linear bl-a 4 bulb unit can get by with convection cooling if you think about your design- and you get 100w spread over several sq ft

    if you can stand $150 buy the elation "uv wash 125" and you got a 125w point source fixture that only weighs a couple lbs but it will heat up a small space and the bulb is at least $40 to replace

    try musiciansfriend.com or samedaymusic.com or any club or lighting supply

    chauvet makes similar and both make led units too

    vya con dios

  3. #13

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    I can tell you that here in South Georgia the frame will get _very hot_ in the sun. My Eastman Kodak contact frame is bleached. I can also print until almost 7:30pm. Real hot. I'm not a real Southerner, i'm from Massachusetts. In MA. I only had 1-3 months where I could print using the sun. So hot here. Did I say it gets hot?

  4. #14

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    printing times and the heat

    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip P. Dimor View Post
    I can tell you that here in South Georgia the frame will get _very hot_ in the sun. My Eastman Kodak contact frame is bleached. I can also print until almost 7:30pm. Real hot. I'm not a real Southerner, i'm from Massachusetts. In MA. I only had 1-3 months where I could print using the sun. So hot here. Did I say it gets hot?
    ppd-waht kind of times are you using with what materials? what influence does the heat have on your processes-we now know that you are being pressure cooked-what about your prints?

    vaya con dios

  5. #15
    mmcclellan's Avatar
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    I had one made in Kosovo along the lines of this:

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/UVBox/uvbox.html

    Given that I could not buy black light bulbs there, I just went with plain flourescent bulbs and the results were okay. UV, of course, is best if you can get it.
    Michael McClellan
    Documentary Photographer
    Ann Arbor, Michigan
    http://www.MichaelMcClellan.com

  6. #16

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    IT WORKS FOR YOU AND LOTS OF FOLKS

    Quote Originally Posted by mmcclellan View Post
    I had one made in Kosovo along the lines of this:

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/UVBox/uvbox.html

    Given that I could not buy black light bulbs there, I just went with plain flourescent bulbs and the results were okay. UV, of course, is best if you can get it.
    asalamu alekum mcclellan

    regular cool white linear flouresent bulbs where in use in lots of comercial shops that i worked for or with -since the output of uv is not as high as uv bulbs the times are longer

    8 ft cool white bulbs are cheaper than 4 ft because so many are made and sold and they and 4ft are available eveywhere-since both are cheap and available -they are the bulb of choice in many commercial shops-i used them in the 60's if the very hot uv bulbs then available where a problem with a particular process

    in the 90's i worked in a fine arts silkscreen shop producing limitd edition signed serigraphs as large as 4 ft x 6 ft

    a bank of 8ft cool whites in a large bench was the light source-any of the shops a knew of allways had the light source so that you put the matereals to be exposed on top of the glass or plastic surface-since glass blocks uv usually an opal plexi was used but i don't think that the difusion was really needed since i worked with units made with clear glass

    a sun tan bed would do a spectacular job and i see that brits get used facial sun tan units and they are very succesful for them-philips makes the ones that are so common in britain-the lack of sun in britain is why they are so plentiful there

    i use cfl uvs because they are easy to get and cheap and self ballasted-i am changeing over to screw in uv leds-no heat no power draw

    thanks for the link- i had lost it and couldn't get back there-i think that the unit for printed circut bds is the most important because it show that you don't neeed as many bulbs as most think

    wa salam

    vaya con dios

  7. #17

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    z-man, it's van dyke brown with an occasional cyanotype. Nothing intensive. My vdb exposure (in direct sun) is about 1 to 3 minutes. My problem is overexposure which turns the tones to a very warm orange tone instead of a deep brown/black.

    The heat doesn't seem to bother the prints so much but I've read a bit about humidity and vdb. A bit of humidity helps with dmax? I wouldn't know, I do coat right before use.

    oh, and z-man, thanks for the heads up on the elation uv-wash and dj blacklights in general. I never thought about that. And those led ones look neat too.

  8. #18

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    van dyke orange?

    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip P. Dimor View Post
    z-man, it's van dyke brown with an occasional cyanotype. Nothing intensive. My vdb exposure (in direct sun) is about 1 to 3 minutes. My problem is overexposure which turns the tones to a very warm orange tone instead of a deep brown/black.

    The heat doesn't seem to bother the prints so much but I've read a bit about humidity and vdb. A bit of humidity helps with dmax? I wouldn't know, I do coat right before use.

    oh, and z-man, thanks for the heads up on the elation uv-wash and dj blacklights in general. I never thought about that. And those led ones look neat too.
    philip

    my experience with vandyke: orange is natural after water wash-fix changes to brown-if you use commercial fixer can bleach back brown to orange-are you using plain hypo? must be one shot or will not fix completely to chocolat brown-no exposure effect on color in my experience

    get some commercial blue print paper-sun print refill from freestyle same thing -this is very consistent and get exposure time from that as a constant

    i went up to boston to work for 6 yrs and froze my skimpy butt off-4xfat goose down ankle length hood trimmed in wolf fur coat i bought up there to survive has never been out of closet since i got back to nyc-watched brazilians come in the summer and never make it thru winter- can see how you are suffering in reverse situation

    vaya con dios

  9. #19

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    platinum prints do not heat up being exposed to the sun

    In fact, I think sun printing is the coolest way to print a p/p print. Mercury vapor is very hot and flourescent bulbs less so.

    Sometimes I found gum bichromate under mercury vapor got too hot.

    Gary Auerbach
    platinumphotographer

  10. #20

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    I think the sun is the sharpest point source light you can use. GA

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